I picked up the new Speed 30 on a bit of a whim, being attracted to the idea of Black Diamond's new 'active' suspension systems and wanting to fill the size niche between my 25l and 45l packs. As it turns out, the Speed will probably all but replace both of those!

Size-wise, I think BD's '30 litre' tag is an underestimate. I reckon this is more like a 40 litre pack (at least compared to a Grivel 45l). There is a generous snow collar and the top lid is floating and can be extended some distance upwards to maximise capacity.

The design of the pack is spot-on. It's almost like the BD designers had real climbers come up with a list of what they wanted and what they didn't want, and then they went through that list and followed it almost to the letter. Outside the pack is very slick, with no extra pockets or zips. There are two good compression straps on each side, the top one being releasable to hold a foam mat or trekking poles securely. The bottom panel is made of a slightly more rugged material but the rest is beefy enough while still being light. The lid is easily removable and features a zipped external pocket big enough for quick-access gubbins.

There is a welded patch of thicker material on the front panel, coupled with hidden D-rings (metal!) for cord attachment - carrying crampons on the outside is not a problem with this pack. The ice tool attachments are fantastic and work well with leashless tools - you pass the shaft through the upper loops, thread the lower metal bar through the hole in the tool's head, then as you pull the upper strap it all tightens up and the tools are held right on the pack. Very secure and easy to attach/release with gloves on. There is a dedicated 3-point haul system, highlighted in red for easy visibility. There is a also a rope-carry strap which packs away when not needed - this passes over the main compartment and secures with a slightly fiddly small buckle. Aside from this, all buckles are easily used with gloves and will not freeze up when full of snow.

Under the lid is a roll-top closure. This is brilliant, making the pack truly functional without the lid - in this case they fasten to the straps that usually hold the lid down at the front. Otherwise it clips together like a traditional drybag. Inside the pack is a baffled hydration pocket, a hanging loop (for bladder) and a small zipper pocket at the top. Plus the generous snow collar with drawstring closure.

The suspension system is fantastic. The (removable) waistbelt bears weight well and moves with your hips. It also features two slightly flimsy gear loops and two hypalon ice clipper slots. The shoulder straps are fantastic, with the 'reACTIV' system making sure they move with you. As such the pack climbs exceptionally well, never hindering movement. Lifter straps and a sternum strap add to the load-carrying comfort.

In short this is the best climbing pack I have ever come across. The BD designers really hit the nail on the head with this one!