These used to be called the Gandalf in the US, but I can only assume JRR Tolkien's lawyers had something to say about that. Bizarrely they still have that name here in Japan. With such a name they promise big things - an approach shoe tough enough to take on a Balrog and good enough to make sure that thou most certainly shall pass.

Do they live up to that hyoe? In a word, yes. In more words...

The construction is insane. I don't think I've seen ANY shoe made this well before, including my Spantiks. They're hand-made with love and care in Italy and it shoes - these things ooze quality.The materials are all seriously robust, the stitching and glue work is perfect. Very impressive.

Externally they are like a very refined Boulder X. Lacing extends RIGHT down to the toes and allows you to make them very snug indeed. The sole is a Vibram rubber dot sole on a reasonably thin midsole. The tongue is nicely padded, but not overly so. The collar is low to allow for good foot movement, but these are still pretty supportive. Inside, the rear of the shoe has a lightly padded 'sock' liner but the front is unlined. There is a removable insole - more on this soon.

The design is superb. The rear half of the shoe is board lasted, like most boots. This makes it supportive and quite rigid. The front half is slip lasted, like a true climbing shoe, and is therefore extremely sensitive and precise, fitting your foot much tighter. The combination of these two lasting techniques really gives the shoe a unique feel and is what makes it so damn good.

Walking in them in nice. The Vibram sole is really grippy - although, as with all dot soles, performance on wet mud and grass is 'dangerous' at best! I'm following La Sportiva's idea and hiking with the insole removed. The inner is still lightly padded and they are still comfortable. It is easy to lace them comfortably.

Upon reaching the climb, the shoes come off and the insole goes in to reduce internal volume a little. This gives a snugger fit. Put them back on, relace them a little tighter (again, super easy) and you're ready to go. And boy do they go! They climb noticeably much better than either my Boulder Xs or Guide Tennies - less 'gooshy', more precise. The sole is super-grippy and they both edge and smear pretty well. They feel like a sloppy climbing shoe (the sort you'd wear for long multipitch trad routes) rather than a neatly-cut sneaker. I don't have much time climbing in these yet but the difference is already very apparently.

I will have these shoes a long time. La Sportiva say they are designed to be good for up to 10 resoles(!) due to the way the insole/sole is constructed and I have no doubt they will last that long due to their robust construction. They climb like a dream and will be my only footwear when I hopefully head to the Tetons for some alpine routes this summer. I love them!

One note: please get the fit right! I would highly recommend trying them on if possible...