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Traction
3.3
14 members
Members average score: 40423
Members highest score: 304180
Members levels:
 
3.3 14 10 0
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Juho Risku Juho Risku
Score: 304180
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Chris Holloway Chris Holloway
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Tuomas Lahti Tuomas Lahti
Score: 46742
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Chris Holloway Chris Holloway
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Rob Carter Rob Carter
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Reviews from Tribe Members (Top 3 rated)

 
product image

Well, the title tells my opinion pretty much to the point. But why is it so good?

It's auto locking belay device without moving parts and weight of the most other devices offering similar functionality. Smart pays out the rope extremely easily, it is easy to use and auto locking works as supposed to. Lowering the climber is easy to control precisely resulting smooth landings. Furthermore it doesn't seem to generate sharp edges from the carabiner as for instance Reverso / Verso does.

It's simply the best indoor belay device I've found so far. Obviously it's equally good also on any single pitch rock route where you don't need to rappel down or belay from the anchor, i.e. best suited for short sports climbing routes. Because you can't use it with two strands of ropes you can't really use it for rappeling - for rappels you need an alpine Smart (or at least I haven't figured it out).

  • Excellent build quality
  • Light
  • Excellent design
  • Robust construction
  • Doesn't generate sharp edges from carabiner very easily
  • No rappel
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Smart really is a smart belay device. It locks automatically both when belaying above as well as belay and offers pretty precise control over the rope. Furthermore the locking action feels very secure especially when belaying from above. Unlike Grigri and most other auto locking belay devices Smart doesn't have many moving parts, thus making it suitable also for icy conditions. The auto locking mechanism works also on rappels and the control over the rope seems precise also ther (this being said, instructions say that one should use prusik backup in any case). Compared to other tube type belay devices Smart is significantly heavier than for instance Reverso 4, however compared to auto locking devices such as reverso it's ligth. One con perhaps would be the fact that Smart is pretty sensitive to rope thickness. As a result you may need two different versions of it, if your rope range varies heavily. Stíll Smart was a really positive surprise.

  • Excellent design
  • Excelent concept
  • Good build quality
  • Auto belay (above + below)
  • Easy to use
  • A bit heavy
  • Limited rope size range
  • Expensive
  • Bulky
product image

Probably a good training toy for people with smaller hands than I have. For me with hands larger than average, Powerball is a bit to small to give decent training fun. I can train my fingers with it but can't get a grip that would feel good or solid enough. My fingertips tend to touch the spinning weight or if I keep the ball only with my fingertips, it feels like the ball would fly away anytime.
It is also quite noisy. Sounds little bit like a vacuum cleaner.

Update:
After months and months of use I have began to like the Powerball more and more. It is still a bit difficult to keep comfortably on hands and it is still quiet loud but less than 30 seconds of intensive spinning feels in your fingers and arms like climbing a 10 meter of slightly overhanging wall.
It is also very durable. Mine is still like new even thought it is already over 2 years old.

  • Fun game
  • Really works
  • Durable
  • Noisy
  • Small for large hand
 
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