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Ice climbers

Tribe for climbers who do vertical ice.

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Reviews from Tribe Members (Top 3 rated)

 
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http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=523692

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While the positron may not be the lightest quickdraw on the block any more (if it ever was), its budget price and durability more than make up for the weight penalty you experience over newer, sleeker designs.

The two krabs that comprise the business ends of the quickdraw are strong and robust with anti-snag keylock noses, an absolute must have feature in my opinion. They are a good size and should prove no difficulty being used with gloves. The clipping action is smooth and positive. The krabs are differentiated by the lower rope end one having a bent gate and the upper bolt/gear end having a straight gate.

The 14mm dyneema sling that connects the two krabs is a nice balance between thick and thin and can be grabbed relatively easily on a route if the need arises. It is quite well textured, unlike some slippier slings and provides a good level of friction.

For the price these draws are ideal for beginners sport climbing rack and could easily see service for trad too.

  • Strong
  • Durable
  • Cheap
  • Good sized sling
  • Weight
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I'd first like to say that I prefer double boots for multi-day ascents, mainly because the liner can easily go dry into the sleeping bag and pebax does not absorb water. General drawback of plastics has been their weight ever since. Now Scarpa came up with Omega, a boot that weights in at the same as lightweight boots.

I had to purchase them through an UK based shop: 125£ plus shipping - cheap in comparison with other lightweight boots for the same type of climbing such as the Scarpa Phantom Guide or Phantom 6k.

I am 100% sure I have the right shell size, but It took me several days out in the mountains for testing, some additional invest and tuning to get them to fit. I tried the "ricebag method" to bake the liners, it looked good
but I was not able to make the Intuition liners hold my heels. In addition the midfoot area is pretty narrow compared to forefoot and heel which hurt me a lot after several hours.
I finally got to a setup with two insoles lifting midfoot and heels in addition to Palau Mountain liners.
The guys at Palau seemed to be already aware of the "Omega Challenge" and where able to properly recommend a liner.

Next I managed to destroy a rivet and shoelace fixating the heel when breaking through snow on a scree slope ... not very confidence-inspiring (I marked the rivet on the product page picture)

I believe those Alu rivets are just not tough enough - and not protected by plastic at all.

  • As light as other lightweight boots
  • Warmer than other lightweight boots
  • Skis as bad as other lightweight boots
  • Awkward fit in standard setup
  • Skywalk Sole
  • Intuition Liner
  • Durability of rivets
  • Durability of lacers
  • Hard to get replacement lacers
  • not waterproof
 
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