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I will start off by saying i have the predecessor to the pad picture. The only real difference i can ascertain is the new pad has a carpeted panel on the strap covers, whereas the old one does not and the corners are slightly more angular now!

This pad near-as lives in my car. As i am on the road a lot with my work I am always trying to sneak a quick lunch break bouldering here and there and this has been my go to pad for two years. For a taco pad it does still fold relatively small when you ratchet the straps down but can still be opened enough to fill it with all the bouldering bits you need for the walk in.

One of the best features of the pad however is the way it folds (I know it folds down the middle!). By folding backwards, i.e. the side you stand on is on the outside of the fold, when you come to lay it out, simply standing on it normally will flatten the foam pad out. You are not left with two wings sticking up either side which you have to do some yoga on to flatten at the same time. Moon were the first brand i noticed to fold the pads that way, there may have been others but Moon seemed to be the first ones to put it out there.

The foam itself is two layers like many pads and having spent so much time folded in my car I would have expected more foam distortion than there is down the middle. I still fall on it regularly (including tonight - shhh!) and haven't noticed an appreciable drop in performance.

I can see why they have now put the carpeted backer to the strap cover, good idea, saves you having to carry one!

All in all a good quality pad, arguably expensive but all quality pads are now!

  • Excellent design
  • Good build quality
  • Robust
  • Expensive... but worth it!
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I got these a couple of years ago when i noticed them in a shop sale and couldn't resist. The fit is nice, snug enough so you do not have excess material but not as tight as some of the southern Euro brands! I would have liked a built in belt to tweek the waist but it isn't exactly hard to use a belt so not too much a complaint there as the belt loops are good quality and not faffy like some of the competition.

They are a heavy duty softshell material that i have yet to feel any wind through. They were severely tested in Norway last winter and performed brilliantly, even after sitting on the snow for a prolonged period of time very little damp was felt through the seat . Having the small in-built gaiter was also really useful. Not as extensive inside the pant as some of the competition but just enough to keep out the weather/snow without added additional weight.

The only additions required are kick patches on the inside of the legs for crampon protection. Mine have been fixed up many times around the ankles after slightly clumsy crampon placement but they are still going strong and will certainly see another winter seasons use!

  • Durability
  • Comfortable
  • High wind resistance
  • Needs kick patches
  • Lack of belt
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Like many climbers i know, I don't seem to be a normal size according to many harness manufacturers! If you follow most brands sizing I require a medium waist but large leg loops, otherwise the harness doesn't safely fit! After 6 months of infuriated searching for a new harness I can across this one, perfect!

When you first put it on there is definitely enough adjustability for my supposed funny shape, yet not too much excess webbing when fastened snugly. With the waist being symmetrical the belay loop will stay centralised not matter how large or small you have the waist.

The buckles are something quite special. This harness basically works as a double-back and zip lock harness at the same time. When done up the harness is effectively a standard zip lock harness, brilliant for rock and indoor climbing. However, when winter comes around the buckles can relatively easily be opened up more akin to a old-school buckle, making it much easier to put on when in full winter kit.

The harness is comfy enough. I have worn harnesses that have been a little comfier to hang in but the Quartz CR is comfy enough unless you aim to be hanging for long periods. I am yet to have any issues with fitting enough kit on the gear loops and the harness has a full strength haul loop at the rear when required.

The only downside to the harness is its availability in the UK. Not many shops hold a strong selection from CAMP, however, if you come across one, try and it on while you have the chance, well worth it!

  • Good build quality
  • Good design
  • Adjustability
  • Availability
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I haven't used this a lot yet but so far It seems really strongly built and I don't think that there will be any in the future. The 'grunge-guard technology' in the bladder and tube seems to be working well so far. The way the tube comes apart from the bladder shows real thought from people who know what they are designing and the seal is good. One gripe is that the tube doesn't seal so if there is water in the tube when you detach it, the water goes everywhere. This is the only thing that I have found wrong so far. The large opening also shows real thought behind the design.
A great, well built, well thought out and designed bladder which could be made perfect by adding a seal on the end of the tube when it is removed for filling, and can be bought for less than £20

  • Well designed
  • Well built
  • removable drinking tube
  • antibacterial technology
  • tube leaks when removed
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I have had these shoes for a while now and if I was buying gain I would get bigger ones but for really difficult edge routes they are great, but too small for me to wear all day. The rubber is very sticky and the edge is great for those small holds and crimps.
A great shoe but make sure you buy the right size!

  • Super-sticky rubber
  • good edge
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If you are into your multi-pitch rock climbing this a rope well worth looking at! Used first as a second it runs beautifully through the belay without getting tangled and/or looped. A common problem with some ropes is the want to coil into the belay as you pay-out or abseil, the Merlin had no such trouble, even when I tried to coil it a bit it would still run smooth.

When climbing it is light and runs easily through krabs, even when friction often becomes too high for other ropes with high angle runner placements. Although stricty a half rope, the narrow 8mm works well for ice if running as a twin. It also come dry treated to protect the rope and keep you expensive life line intact for as long as possible.

At 8mm it may be a bit too slim for some but it still brakes reasonably easy in a belay and I didn't find it too difficult to hold in the hand. If you are looking for a new pair of trad ropes, voila!

  • Smooth Running
  • Excellent build quality
  • Lightweight
  • Expensive... but worth it!
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Have one but now prefer to use my altios due to the weight, although the altios is not as comfortable. It is hard wearing, although gives basically no protection anywhere except from the top of your head. They are, like others have said, easy to adjust due to the large wheels on the side. the straps are well placed and do not catch on my ears which I have had when I tried on other helmets. The price is a little high for what is really a very basic helmet. So all in all, a great helmet, but now superseded by new technology.

  • Durable
  • Well designed
  • no side protection
  • Price
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Well all in all, the stove is good, it can make a brew, or cook a meal without the need for flames or leaving your tent. Great. Also great idea for group leaders who want have concerns over their groups behaviour around stoves (special needs groups perhaps?). It’s small, light, and does make a good brew with minimal fuss, and whilst it doesn’t seem to be able to make 2 brews, it can keep 1 brew warm for longer. Which brings me on to the negative aspect of the stove, 5 heat packs for £10 = £2 per brew, not ideal. But look at it this way, as an item you don’t use every single trip, or as a convenience item it’s a great piece of kit to have, and there’s not much that can go wrong with it.

I am looking forward to my first morning brew in the tent with the rain tipping down outside, something tells me that when I’m sitting in my sleeping bag, warm and dry, that I will appreciate this item much more.

  • Cheap
  • Flameless
  • Easy to use
  • Small
  • Fuel is expensive
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Begrudingly I conceded it’s time to replace my helmet having had it for 5 years now, it’s certainly served me well. I headed over to Go Outdoors to buy a Petzl Meteor 3+ (fancied one for a while, and combination of deals in GoOutdoors meant that they were available for £51 – jackpot). While browsing round the store I came across the Trekmates Flameless Cook System section. When I first saw the FCS it peaked my interest, a means of heating food and drink that doesn’t need gas....sounds good. I was faced with 2 options; £18 bought me the Flameless Cook Flask (360ml) http://www.trekmates.co.uk/online-shop/flameless-cook-system/flameless-cook-flask, which came with 3 heat packs, alternatively £27 bought the Flameless Cook Box, which came with 4 heat packs (2 of each size). I opted for the flask, reasoning with myself that if the FCS proved to be a good addition I would return for the box.

The system works by using water activated heat packs, which are available in 2 sizes (high power and super power), these are available for £10 (pack of 7 high power packs) or £10 (pack of 5 super power packs). The super power packs are only useable in the Flameless box and not in the flask. Each stove comes with a measuring bottle to ensure you add the right amount of water to activate the heat pack (depending on the size). Each stove or heat pack comes with “loyalty points” you can use on www.flamelesscook.com to buy more heat packs, and other goodies. This is great because it reduces the overall cost of the fuel for the stove as you get freebies every so often.



Good so far…..

So time to test one; the concept is fairly simple:

Stage 1: Separate the plastic outer stove from the metal inner container. Put food/water into the inner metal section

Stage 2: Fill the plastic measuring bottle to the indicated level for high or super (depending on the size of pack you are using.

Stage 3: Add the heat pack into the bottom of the plastic outer stove, add the water from the measuring bottle, and then put the metal inner and plastic outer back together, secure the lid with the clips and wait.


Measure bottle, plastic outer, metal inner, and lid.

I followed the instructions and after a bit of a funny smell initially, coupled with a bit of audible fizzing, and 7 minutes of time, I had 1 piping hot brew. The water was very hot indeed. I immediately emptied the water out into a mug and refilled the stove. Worth noting at this point that I displaced the metal inner section when pouring the water out, took a bit of fiddling to get it back in given how hot it was, but I did it no problem and resealed the stove. After 7 minutes the water was still cold….not good in my opinion, would hope that given the cost of the packs that there should be more than 1 brew per pack. I resealed the container for an additional 5 minutes (13 minutes in total) See part 2

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Bought this with my first harness as part of a pack and has served me well ever since. I suppose there isn't really much that can set an HMS karabiner apart from the rest and this one is just another one. It is fairly lightweight, especially for a karabiner of it's size. Also appears to have stood up well to 2 years of belaying, although now takes second place to my DMM boa(see my other review) for no other reason than the boa is bigger and shinier. Well priced for an HMS.

  • Lightweight
  • Durable
  • Price
  • nothing special
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If you want a pair of well designed no frills belay and abseil gloves then these are perfect for you. They keep your hands clean and improve grip while maintaining dexterity and sensitivity through the fingers. The nylon on the back of the gloves keeps your hands nice and cool, even in hot weather or in hot climbing centres. Very hardwearing - I have used mine once a week for 14 months and they still have plenty of life left in them. The karabiner hole is another well thought feature about the gloves.

  • Lightweight
  • Durability
  • Breathable
  • Low price
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Had this for 4ish years and despite using it on every outdoor day it is still going strong. Might not be the heaviest but not the lightest. Comfort come from the mesh and cradle system like the previous reviewer said. Stands up to everything it has been through - crammed in bags and dropped out them! The headlamp clips are at the perfect height for using those on unplanned late night descents. The chinstrap buckle is well placed at the side of the head rather than under the chin, which causes far less irritation than other designs and the webbing is nice and soft unlike other helmets I own. A great helmet but if you are a gram-shaver, it's not for you.

  • Tough and durable
  • Weight
  • Good value
  • Well designed
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Had this rope for 2-3 years, my first (and only) rope and one of the best I have handled. Marketed and priced as an entry to mid-level rope but performs like a high level rope. Handles excellently and feels great in the hand. Appears to have stood up well to all the use it has seen. One of my favourite gifts of all time!

  • Durability
  • Good build quality
  • Well designed
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Like the title says - I was surprised at how light it felt. the karabiners have a nice feel to them, but are too small for winter use with gloves. Perfect for trad or sport. Not had it long enough to comment on durability but wear so far has been similar to other quickdraws I have used. Not the cheapest but not most expensive either.

  • Lightweight
  • too small for winter
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Good wee karabiner - I use mine with my grigri but as far as I can tell the only thing that sets it apart from other D-shaped karabiners is it's strength(32kn). Comes with the usual three DMM locking systems(screwlock, quicklock and locksafe) Good for sport climbig with a grigri or similar but probably not the best for multipitch due to it's weight - there are lighter ones out there. It seems pretty durable because of the amount of metal (and weight)

  • super strong
  • Durable
  • Quite heavy
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This was my first belay device which came free with my harness - shop was probably trying to get rid of them as they are so bad. Good concept but awful in practice - paying out is really sticky as is taking in and abseiling on one of these.

I would not recommend these to anyone, spend another couple of pounds on a decent belay device.

  • low price
  • sticky
  • poor value
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The Boa is a great karabiner for everything - from belaying to building belays and much, much more. Mine was given to me about a year ago and I have loved every time I have used it.

Really smooth for belaying with all the belay devices I can get my hands on and a munter hitch.
Great for building belays due to the massive basket - DMM claim that you can fit three clove hitches on it, but I have managed to squeeze 4 in with skinny ropes.

The I-beam technology found most of DMM's gear maximizes strength to weight ratio, making for a surprisingly light karabiner for it's size.

All-in-all a great karabiner for everything - don't leave home without one.

  • big
  • strong
  • Excellent build quality
  • Light
  • Good value
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This jacket was on sale at Snow + Rock for £50, so I thought I'd give it a try as an alternative to my latest down jacket, which was doing the down jacket thing of getting lots of little nicks, and leaking down even not through the nicks.

I've not had a synthetic belay jacket before, and I don't think this is any less warm than my previous down jacket. Having said this, it's quite a light weight jacket, and probably isn't suitable for very cold conditions (neither was my last down jacket). It is however brilliant for throwing on while belaying on climbing trips. I love the purple colour, but it's also available in a more subtle black. The material doesn't rip as easily as my down jacket.

The only thing missing really is a hood, you have to buy a different line of jackets to get a hood, which seems a bit weird really. I also managed to break the zip on one of the pockets on about the second time I wore it. The main zip is much better quality than the pocket zips though.

  • Good Colour
  • Good fit
  • Good price
  • No hood
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This is a light pack that's strippable down on an amazing 650g but that lack of weight comes at a cost, namely durability.
As it is an alpine pack it should be expected to stand up to quite a bit of abuse against rock and the bottom of the pack got holed after a few weeks of light usage on some long rock routes. The face material also showed signs of wear quite early in its life.
It's not a huge issue as some McNett seam tape has covered the hole nicely but I get the feeling that this pack would be more at home on the snow though.

I'd question the lack of reinforcements on the attachment points of the main closure straps, they are just stitched directly to the main body. The material of the main body is quite light and I can see this becoming an issue but so far it's been ok.

The main irk i have with the pack is the attachment system used for the lid and the compression straps. They seem to come undone when you least need them to, but when you actually want to undo them they are very awkward to release. This mainly applies to the lid, but I have had the compression straps come undone of their own accord a few times.

I'm beginning to think that the best way to get the lid off is to turn your back on the pack, ignore it and it will just fall off itself!

But enough about the negative! There's a huge amount about this pack to like too:
The lid is a great size with two loops inside for attaching your keys, GPS or whatever takes your fancy. There is also a nice internal zipped security pocket in the bottom of the lid too.
The central zipper is great for accessing items at the bottom of your pack without having to release the closure straps and undoing the draw cords. It really is the thing I like best about this pack and am now sure I won't opt for another pack that does not have this feature.

It is a comfortable pack, with soft padding on the hipbelt and back area. I thought the softness of the padding might be problematic but it is actually fine under a heavy load (14Kg) of full trad rack, ropes, clothing, food and water.

And finally the DWR of the pack is worth noting, it sheds quite a lot of rain before leaving in water and is lasting quite well.

I bought this item from the company themselves as I liked their ethos and commitment to making products with an ecological slant. At €110 euros delivered it's not too badly priced. The pack itself is made from recycled material so kudos are due to Blue Ice for that.

The three star review is reflective of the quality of the pack, it is above average, but not stellar. Refinement of the attachment system and toughening up the bottom and face fabrics would see this pushing strongly for a five star rating.

  • Great lid
  • Central zipper is fantastic
  • DWR
  • Weight
  • Comfortable
  • Awful lid attachment system
  • Not as durable as it should be
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Having owned my wallnuts for 1-11 for a year now I can compare them to my BD offset and other wire i have used off other peoples racks. I can safely say that the DMM wallnuts do fit in many places and many different ways. They are light, stong and durable. The colours are great too! These are the cheapest nuts I have found on the market. I bought them for about £69.99. A good buy!

  • light
  • durable
  • good build quality
  • easy to use
  • easy to place
  • nice colours
  • best ive used
  • none
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Have both of these cams and must say they are a great collection to my rack. I love the solidness of them and you know when you have found a good placement with them. With that they are easy to place and will handle any situation you throw at them They're rated at 14KN and most leader falls are 4-7KN so they easily fall into the safety range.

On the other hand they can be quite expensive and can be fairly heavy (compared to a nut or hex)! But this is well worth it

Overall I would be lost without the dragon cams!

  • durable
  • easy to place
  • stong
  • good holding power
  • Expensive... but worth it!
  • Heavy when you have a few
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Having these for a month or so this seems to be a solid shoe. Its very sticky outside on the rock and indoor too. I would rate this as a intermediate shoe as it doesn't perform as well as the upper end shoes on the market. Price matched at Gooutdoors for £62 instead of 69.99 at banana fingers. I prefer velcro shoes as they are easily put on and just as easy to take them off again. Overall a good intermediate shoe for indoors and outdoors climbing.

  • sticky
  • easy to tie (velcro)
  • light
  • durable
  • good build quality
  • fairly cheap
  • not pro shoe
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First time i've ever use a grigri. Rope (10mm) handles really smoothly through the device. Rock solid piece of equipment. Also can be used as a decent device and also as an assender. Had more than one use. Unfortunately can only be used with one rope and is expensive. (I paid £49 for mine)

  • lightweight
  • takes a range of different diameter ropes
  • durable
  • easy to use
  • Only use with one rope
  • Expensive... but worth it!
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Had this sling for over a year now. Stands up to wear and tear good. Good buy.

  • cheap
  • Durability
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Having used this backpack for 10 days in the Bavarian mountains for adventurous training it has definately proved its worth. It is very durable and fits perfect. (I'm 6ft).

Firstly hiking up mountains. Lots of space for storing valuables in the center. Lots of loops on the outside to secure walking poles etc.. Lots of padding so your shoulders don't ache that much after use and good belt strap.

Climbing - good for ropes at the top of the bag. Has its own strap at the top to secure the rope in place.

Kayaking - enough space to fit wet/warm kit in.

Klettersteig - Great for all the gear again. Fits in perfect, without much excess room - just what you want.

Caving - small enough to fit through the small places you go through.

Overall this bag is good for days out. Just what I wanted really. Somewhat bigger than a day sack, but smaller than a full on 90L rucksack. A must!

  • Excellent build quality
  • Good pockets
  • Excess sorage on outside
  • Fairly cheap
  • Strong and durable
  • zips at bottom to save you emptying your whole bag
  • None!
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Liked the design hence the buy. Also able to attach light to front and I have attached my GOPRO helmet strap which fits perfect. The polystyrene on the interior on the side is a little brittle however nothing a bit of superglue wont fix. (Not a major drama). It wasn't the fact that just one side did it, it happened to be both, maybe its my head? I wouldn't say its particually heavy but I havn't worn a lot of helmets. I have had this for over a year and I will still continue to wear it. Fits great and is comfortabe.

  • Comfortable
  • Fit
  • Price
  • slightly compromised build quality
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I only have a few of these as they were so cheap I couldn't resist picking up a few.
A little on the small side for anything other than ungloved use, but I guess they were never designed with winter climbing in mind.
The captive piece in the gate that engages with the nose can rattle a little and this had me a little worried at first, however once I realised what was causing the noise I was fine with it.

Very similar to the DMM Shield, but not identical.

www.needlesports.com have these on sale for £3.99 at the moment if anyone is looking for a bargain!

  • Clean nose
  • Funky design
  • small
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A great rope, especially with the Golden Dry coating which helps greatly as where I live tends to be 'blessed' with quite a lot of rain.
They are versatile and durable and handled quite well out of the pack and continue to do so.

Unbelievably these ropes do not come with a center mark which meant I had to apply a layer of Beal rope marker.
I have a pair of 60's (blue and red) with the Golden Dry coating for the record.

  • Durable
  • Relatively Cheap
  • Good handling
  • Weight
  • No center mark
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These look odd when you first see them, it's not entirely obvious how they're supposed to be used but it's worth going beyond the initial impression and actually getting some of these.

There are two modes of placement, active and passive. I can honestly say that I've rarely used them in the latter mode; I always prefer nuts for that sort of protection, though it's nice to have the flexibility of having additional options available on the rack. That being sad, they place relatively easily and feel secure when in - I've taken a fall on one so for me the protection value is at least 'real' in my mind.

I find their real strength is in the active 'camming' mode, for this they are great and once you get used to them are very easy to place. They are good for deeper placements and are easily extendable, also the smaller end of the range can be used in a variety of shot holes or similar features that are traditionally difficult to protect.

I have used these in the winter, but sparingly - I've never fallen on them but I have appreciated the 'bite' that the beak gives. That bite can also make these tricky to clean, especially if you take a big fall on them - it's worth paying attention to the rock you are climbing on as these could really dig themselves in or damage the surface of the rock. The worst I've had was fairly easily removed with a nut key and a bash with a large hex.

Really good bits of kit and I can only reiterate the excellent points raised in the other review. These are versatile bits of gear and a worthy addition to a gear selection as they can add an element of versatility and widen your choices of where you can place protection.

  • Versatile
  • Excellent build quality
  • can be tricky to clean
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I bought these when they were in a bargain bin in V12 a few years back (1.5 and1.75), I was drawn by the narrow profile and a sterling recommendation from a friend. Now for small cracks my go to cam is the Mastercam and I'm very happy with them, but these little gems do have a few tricks of their own.

As I've already mentioned the narrow head profile means that these fit in some placements that I can't get the wider (4cu) units in. I've found that they seem to walk much less, whether this is a function of the three cams or the narrow placements I don't know. The extendable sling is a nice touch and one I appreciate.

The only downside is that these cams are small, and I'm speaking as a bloke with girlishly small hands (no sniggering at the back) and I find holding these a bit of a fiddle. The triggers are smooth enough; perhaps a tiny bit stiff but I find the lack of space a problem.

Basically a great little cam for narrow placements, that stays where you put it and a worthy addition to your rack. Some places are selling these at very reasonable prices which make them an excellent small cam for people looking to extend their range of cams.

  • Light
  • Excellent build quality
  • Good design
  • Well thought features
  • Triggers
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As a piece of kit this is second to none and has become my favourite mid layer garment bar none. I normally wear this over my R1 Hoody during the winter if I'm going to be moving fast, usually with a hard shell for when it gets wetter and a belay jacket for when i stop moving. I find that for 90% of what I'm doing this is absolutely fine. If I wanted to up the warmth I would trade out the hard shell for a soft-shell, I've tried adding additional base layers but frankly at that point I boil.

Designed as a replacement or at least alternative to the mid layer this is a light and breathable alternative that is great for keeping warm while on the move, the core insulation means that you still stay warm if it gets damp and it dries out really fast - surprisingly so. The surface fabric feels really nice to handle and will shrug off light rain but really nothing more than the briefest of showers.

The adjustment is simple - draw strings at the waist, the zip runs really nicely and is baffled, the pockets are lined so nice on cold hands and the finishing is immaculate. The zip does up nice and high so keeps the wind off the neck and the hood forms a nice collar to help keep warm.

The hood is the only thing that has drawn any criticism, people don't like its lack of adjustment - I've not found it a problem, when it's over a helmet it's not a problem and even over a hat its fine. Though if walking on the tops and the wind catches it, it does turn into a bit of a sail. I've not found it to be a problem and certainly wouldn't let it stop me from recommending it to anyone.

The movement of the jacket as a whole is fabulous, under a harness it doesn't stop you reaching up above your head or twisting for holds, placements or gear (or random thrashing). The stretch panels help; these will be familiar to Rab VR wearers as are the shortcomings - the lack of wind resistance. Unless it's blowing a hoolie it's not a problem, if working hard then the additional venting is great - standing still not so much but that's what other layers are for.

The whole thing packs down and compresses really well - I usually pack mine into the sleeve which makes it easy to store but also means I can just flick it out of the sleeve and it's ready to go!

I can only agree with the other excellent review - the zip has never been an issue (in fact it's one of the things I like about the jacket) and the hood would benefit form a drawstring but nothing more complicated than that. Buy one, you will not regret it.

  • Outstanding build quality
  • Lightweight
  • Warmth to weight ratio
  • Does what it says on the tin
  • Excellent fit
  • Thoughtful design
  • Hood - possibly
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I have the newer (2011-12) version of this garment and while it remains an outstanding piece of clothing the levels of protection it affords have fallen since the fabric changed from Polartec Powershield to Fortius 2.0. It also comes in slightly heavier as well at just under 700gr.

I've been lucky enough to experience both models so if you would prefer more wind resistance then try track down one of the older models. If you are looking for more breathability then the newer one is the model for you.

On to the jacket itself and it remains one of the best made pieces of clothing I've come across. Add to the mix that they make it in a great range of interesting colours (take note everyone else black and blue aren't good enough!).

The hood is a stand out piece of design, it's huge and bucket like but cinches down so well with the draw cord adjustment system that it's a perfect fit whether wearing a helmet or not.

The DWR also deserves a mention, it's as good as it gets!

  • Perfect fit
  • Fantastic hood
  • Build quality
  • Looks great
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Several outdoor clothing manufacturers have all been 'inspired' by the design of this garment. It's simply that good.

My primary use for this item is to replace the mid weight insulating fleece as part of a layering system and it does this perfectly at a greatly decreased weight. I've found it good enough to wear on its own a lot of the time when it's not raining. On the matter of rain, the DWR is good but the jacket is simply not designed to resist a downpour, it's meant to be under a shell at that stage.

The insulated zip baffle is a nice touch and the pockets are lined with a really soft fleece.

For the record I'm 178cm and 77Kg, or 5'10 and 12st in old money. The medium is a perfect fit with a baselayer and/or a powerstretch top on underneath.

The hood and non locking zip have come in for some criticism, however neither of these are an issue for me at all. The zip has never come down and the hood is fine under a helmet. I'd prefer a drawstring but it's not a big deal.

The only suggestion I would make would be to decrease the size of the Powerstretch panels so that they are more confined to the pit area.
That said, I'd buy this again in a heartbeat, and as a matter of fact I'm thinking of getting another one as soon as I can just in case Arcteryx decide to change it. It's that good.

  • High warmth to weight ratio
  • Lightweight
  • Outstanding build quality
  • Perfect fit
  • Looks great!
  • No drawstring on hood
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There are a few iconic pieces of equipment and the R1 Hoody has to be one of them. A hugely versatile item of clothing; this is one of those items that when you get your hands on it you understand the work that has gone into its genesis and production.

The Polartec® Power Dry® is gridded, this aids in stretch, helps with airflow and also traps that all important layer of warm air. It wicks incredibly fast and the stretch panels means there's no restriction of movement, the front zip is incredibly deep which is great for venting should you need to dump heat fast.

The garment is cut long in the body and seems to be a little longer in the sleeves; this means that once you're tucked under your harness or layers it's not going anywhere. The slightly longer sleeves also means that the thumb loops don't pull too much - useful when you're spending a lot of time with your hands over your head!

The hood is tight fitting and goes under a helmet easily, the offset zip means it's comfortable to wear and doesn't rub. The flatlock construction means that rucksack straps don't rub and there's no abrasion from long term wear.

I normally wear this as a base layer or occasionally over a very thin base layer - I've never had the requirement to wear anything thicker under this. If I layer this with my Atom LT Hoody then I'm usually toasty all day while moving.

This is a technical garment and doesn't pretend to be anything else, the synthetic nature of its construction does means that long term wear will generate a smell - I've found it to wash well and doesn't have that annoying habit of holding onto odours.

In short - a fabulous garment, an absolute favourite.

  • Thoughtful design
  • Abundance of technical features
  • Stays warm - even when wet
  • Expensive... but worth it!
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The Moon Cypher Pant has been around for a while in the UK now, I've had mine for a few years now and they've been a part of my climbing summer wardrobe for a while now.

They're well made, simple and nicely finished. The waistband is elasticated with a pull cord cinch, it has the obligatory diamond crotch and pull cords for the ankles. The waistband makes it comfortable to wear; the fabric is light and dries really quickly so if you get caught in a brief shower you won't stay damp for long once the sun returns.

The lightweight fabric obviously means that these aren't going to be great on cold days, though I've found them to be ok with some longer base layers underneath, The loose fit means there's plenty of room to move and if you like to see where you're putting your feet when you're climbing then closing up the ankles allows you to do this (I always end up standing on the bottoms if I don't so this). They seem to have worn well, they bear the scars of the usual mal-treatment of spills, falls and dirt but the material and construction are still holding firm.

They're reasonable for casual wear afterwards if that's a concern down the pub; my only real problem is with the weird pocket flaps - why? The pockets have a zip closure so it seems superfluous to be honest; it just seems to get in the way to my mind. I have mixed views on the value for money, these are a fairly simply constructed garment so on one hand it seems a little much, on the other hand they have worn incredibly well, are well designed and are obviously the product of experience and so you pay for that.

Don't let personal niggles deter anyone though; these are still good climbing pants that are great for days out at the crag.

  • Good build quality
  • Durability
  • Comfortable
  • pocket flaps? why?
  • Price?
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Mammut Trion Taranaki is a simple lightweight pack. It represents typical Mammut quality in terms of fabrics, design and finishing. From features perspective it's simple and functional. One big opening, lid with larger pocket and map compartment, detachable hip belt with gear loops, slot for hydration bladder (not needed for winter climbing), compression straps / ski attachments on sides and two straightforwardly working ice axe holders. These features are combined with easy adjustment and gool load carrying comfort. As such it makes a great climbing pack. I have found out however that it's just a bit too small for winter climbing, you'll get all the gear in, but not the belay jacket - so it's my choice, but to be used only during warm days. For touring however it's just about right sized and while it lacks some of the touring specific features like avy gear compartment and helmet holder, it does good job there (will most likely replace my Ortovox Peak 29).

As in most cases there are some things that annoy as well. For instance the profile should perhaps be slightly wider so that the bottom part would be more easily accessible - that would also add the needed 5L of volume to get the down jacket in. I would also like to have a detachable helmet / avy gear holder (could be attached to daisy chain already there). Perhaps couple of small attachment loops on lid and plastic d-rings on shoulder straps to attach a radio would do good as well. It's interesting that they bothered to add a panel to hide the straps that hold the head of the ice axes - what else does it do than ads a few grams of weight? I also wonder why these climbing focused packs do not have bandolier like gear loops on their shoulder straps? I like to rack my quick draws and rock gear higher up and such addition would make Taranaki excellent on multi-pitch routes (and I could leave my Grivel Lynx home). I know, it's not a mainstream feature, but such could be offered as optional or a separate version in any case.

So to summarize, it's a great climbing focused pack. Will definitely follow me on many climbs both summer and winter. In winter only on warmer days.

  • Excellent build quality
  • Good design
  • Features
  • Load carrying comfort
  • Adjustments
  • Slightly too small
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Spring is in the air, or at least it has felt like it this week in the UK and so in a rare mid-week escape I decided to brave my knees to the air and so dusted off my Spotter shorts and headed out to the crags.

The Spotter has the attention to detail that you expect from Arc'teryx, in fact it's almost over engineered. The seams are all immaculately finished and the fabric is almost too thick - almost, I have used these on grit as well and been thankful for the durability this thickness brings. The fit is excellent, though the relaxed styling means that there is a little extra room in the waist; not a bad thing and not enough to necessarily change your usual sizing but worth paying attention to.

The waist band is lined, which makes it very comfortable to wear and removes the risk of chafing, it comes equipped with belt loops (never used them) and more pockets than you can shake a stick at. The gusseted crotch allows for mobility without restriction and the relaxed fit means that they don't ride up or overly constrict. The pockets are deep, really deep and you can load them up but if wearing a harness you can only access the tops of the pockets as the bottom is cut off by the leg loops. The extra cell phone pocket is more of an affectation to my mind (as is the coin pocket), I've only ever used it for carrying energy gels when walking or screws and oddments when doing DIY; using it for anything heavier would seem to just be an annoyance as it gently bumps against the rear of the leg as you walk.

Once consideration is that these shorts have zero stretch, the size you get them is what they will remain.

When out and about the shorts sit nicely on the waist and are really comfortable to wear, these do as well for long trekking as climbing and here the plentiful pockets and their depth would probably be more useful. I think for overall usage I prefer these for bouldering more than harnessed climbing, in warmer conditions the thicker weight material can be almost too warm and the material doesn't wick particularly quickly or transport moisture well - though they do seem to dry quickly in direct sunlight.

The durability counts when being dragged over the countryside and sitting on ledges, while the cotton has developed a slightly (and I mean slight) brushed appearance on the surface but has sustained no appreciable damage. The stitching is untouched and the fly zip and waist button and button hole are as good as new.

All things considered, these are probably my favourite shorts, despite their performance in hotter weather their bombproof construction and comfort means that I will be pulling these first out of the cupboard during the warmer months. Plus my other half won't despair when I wear them out as they at least look 'respectable', not that I'm sure what that means.

Would I recommend? Definitely.

Would I recommend taking them out this early in the year? Probably not, enthusiasm triumphed over common sense - thank god for warm top layers!

  • Bombproof
  • Excellent build quality
  • Comfortable
  • Excellent design
  • Arc'teryx price tag
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Rainer is exactly the kind of waterproof jacket I like. It's Goretex paclite, but lightly sturdier than some others, which makes Rainer a durable while still light and packable. As I tend to use softshell when ever I can this balance of weight/packablity and durability make Rainer ideal backup even for harsher mountain environment. The design of Rainer is clean, just two pockets that act as ventilation as well, skirt tightener, roomy hood that fits over helmet with appropriate tighteners (two in front both sides, and one in back) and velcro tighteners on sleeves. That's it. Just the features you need, nothing more. While I have to say that I don't like velcro, but don't know if there's reasonable alternatives available to this type of jacket.

The looks of the jacket is striking and while it it's kind of "old school" modern in a way that's typical for Mammut, I kind of like it... usually I like gear that has more "rock-n-roll" in them. Also from quality perspective Rainer represents typical top notch quality of Mammut. This includes materials, design as well as finishing.

In short it's a good jacket. Recommended.

  • Excellent design
  • Excellent build quality
  • Durability
  • Materials
  • Well thought features
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The blurb says 'Climb On! was formulated for and is used by the gnarliest rock climbers the world has ever seen'. I'm not gnarly, at least I don't think so - I like my creature comforts too much which I think instantly dismisses me from the 'gnarly' category.

On the other hand I do tend to sport a constant series of cuts, abrasions, flappers, scratches, grazes and bruises and the handy size of this plus the fact it seems to work for me means that I think this stuff is pretty good. I know some people don't get on with this so my experience is purely anecdotal, but if you tend to have those 'special' moments then this stuff is pretty good in my estimation.

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This is a great cold or cooler weather garment. I bought this with mainly winters in mind, mainly as a base/mid layer for those active days when you know there will be the inevitable hiatus (lunch/belays etc.) so I wanted something that would keep me warm, allow freedom of movement and wick well. It has certainly fulfilled that niche and has crept into my spring and autumn wardrobe as one of my favourite tops for climbing, running, hiking and even doing the gardening.

Firstly, the fit - I've always found Rab products to be a little tight across the chest and the arms and this top was no different, that being said the fit is supposed to be close and it hasn't impeded my movement or stopped me from climbing or dynamic movements. The only thing that is difficult is to push the sleeves up if running very hot, the very close fit may mean that you have to size up from normal so worth checking first.

The build quality is excellent, stitching and seams are all nicely finished, the zip is deep and snag free and the pull cords for the waist and collar are easy to use though the tags can be a little trick with thicker gloves on.

Performance wise the garment is great, the pertex shell resists the wind nicely and the DWR coating is enough to shrug off light amounts of moisture, the lining wicks brilliantly and the garment as a whole dries quickly. The front zip is very deep allowing you to cool down effectively if necessary and the thumb loops in the sleeves and stretch side panels are nice finishing touches. The athletic fit means this top works really well under a hardshell and on warmer days is absolutely fine over just a base layer if you are moving fast.

Grumbles? Nit picking really, nothing of substance - the stretch panels will let the wind through so can cause some untoward cooling and the sleeves are a minor niggle but a personal one for me.

I would certainly recommend this for anyone wanting a good layer for working fast in cooler climes, a great top that is well priced and an excellent addition.

  • Good build quality
  • Warm
  • Good design
  • maybe the fit for some
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My ability to collect outdoor footwear apparently makes me more of a girl than my other half (so she claims). It is however, a trait that sometimes leads me to discover diamonds in the rough - the Typhoon is one of those.

Firstly, the fit; these shoes are snug, almost painfully so on first trying, there is a little give in them but being pre-stretched don't expect them to give much over time. I have found little or no dead space, though if there had to be one place that had more give than less it's the heel. I do have narrow heels and ankles (those that say 'girlish' will be asked to leave the room) and this is the only area where there could be considered to be any free space. The tensioning round the heel cup really pulls it in, giving a very fitted feel, the padded tongue is comfy and allows the shoe to be done up tightly and the opposing straps means that it's definitely not going to move.

The shoe performs wonderfully; the proprietary E-Grip is definitely sticky, stands up well to abuse (and hapless thrashing) and is great for heel hooking. It strikes an admirable balance between rigidity and sensitivity, I have found it performs well on pretty much everything - trad, sport or bouldering though my personal preference is to use these on more technical routes, preferably on the vertical or overhanging routes.

Reservations? Not really, if pushed my only one would be the fit - if Edelrid products fit your feet then buy without concern, if you have never tried them on before then definitely go to a shop and try on a few pairs. That being said these shoes are priced extremely competitively and well worth the price and are an excellent all round technical shoe.

  • Excellent build quality
  • Form fitting
  • Excellent value
  • Great performance
  • fit dependant on foot shape
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I got the lace up version of these last year (I challenge anyone to try and find them online!) and they are superb for technical performance climbing, specifically sport and bouldering. They are super aggressive but still comfy for long sport routes. The rubber is fantastic and the toe rand is sticky but thin for super sensitivity. You can feel the tiniest edges and holes under these shoes. On anything less than vertical these are quite uncomfortable, but for overhanging terrain i havnt found a comparable shoe.

  • Excellent build quality
  • Aggressive
  • Look awesome
  • Super sensitive
  • I dont think they are made anymore
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I have used Jokers as my every day, long day comfort shoe for several years. First things first, they are so comfy! They feel like putting on a pair of slippers, and are surprisingly warm when the weather isnt! The comfort is their biggest plus point. People have complained about the sole stickiness, i guess its true that they become less sticky after a few months, but i've never owned a pair of shoes that havnt. The rubber is pretty hard wearing too, a flipside to less sticky soles.

The price and comfort of these shoes make them popular with beginners, and i definitely reccomend them to beginners, but i have used them on all rock types, up to E3 without many problems (except maybe the slate)! So if you climb hard and just want a comfy pair of every day shoes then you cant go wrong!

  • Excellent build quality
  • Super comfortable
  • Very good value
  • Durable
  • Warm
  • Colour fades to a kind of turquoise, not cool
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The renegade is Dmm's flagship harness, and let me say it now, it is brilliant. The first thing i look for in a harness is comfort, the worst thing is thinking about how uncomfortable your harness is when climbing. I've owned the renegade for two years now, and i have never once been uncomfortable in it, even whilst sitting at hanging belays for long periods of time.

So techy stuff.... well its obvious features are the 7 gear loops, which is perfect for the trad/winter climbers, and allows easy rack organisation. The floating waistbelt is another brilliant feature, alowing the waistbelt to be revolved around your body, useful for adjusting your gear loops to the perfect position, and when at those belays which are not perfect, the belay loop doesnt have to be square in front of you, you can slide it round a tad, making it more comfortable.

I cannot think of anything bad about this harness without talking about things it wasnt designed for in the first place, if your after lightweight for sport, then its not for you, but for long days and comfort, this the best harness i have ever used. Its not too expensive either!

  • Excellent build quality
  • Comfortable
  • 7 gear loops
  • Floating waistbelt
  • Ice screw holders
  • The sizings seem to be quite small!
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Nomic is for sure a very good ice axe. It excels on steeper ground and hooking placements. The handle gives a good "basic" grip as well as excellent alternate grips. It has adjustable grip rest to accommodate different sizes of hands etc...

For some reason though I feel that my placements are more secure with Grivel axes. While the swing with Nomic is good the stability on sideways is not as good as some others I've tried. I tend to get more hits to my knuckles as well with Nomics (and I know, it's partly problems my technique). Also the construction of grip rest is somewhat problematic, while size adjustment is good, it done in a way that it prone to break (some models of Nomic suffer more of this than others) . One final downside, though easy to go around, is the fact that the hole in Nomic handle is not positioned best possible way. If you attach for instance a spring leash into it, the leash carabiner goes around the handle in way that it doesn't feel good in your hand, same applies for cord. You can overcome this limitation with knife and cord though. :-)

All this critique being said, Nomic is still a very good axe. If I would climb Nomics more frequently, I might even change my mind on some of the issues above.

  • Good build quality
  • Good design
  • Adjustability
  • Performance on steep ice
  • Performance on hooking placements
  • Griprest construction
  • Location of hole in handle
  • Stability sideways
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The X-350a is certainly an eye catching harness, it looks almost impossibly slight to stand up to the rigors of climbing and worryingly thin when you add winter adventures into the equation. Thankfully I was proved absolutely wrong on all counts - there's an immediate fascination when you first see the harness, it's almost impossible to not pick it up and marvel at the weight and construction (for me this came when I unwrapped it as a very surprising birthday present).

It is certainly one of the most comfortable harnesses I have ever worn; standing and walking around it's almost possible to forget you're wearing it. The drawback is that it's not the most comfortable harness to hang in - it's not uncomfortable, rather there are certainly more comfortable harnesses out there. However, that being said, it doesn't cut in unduly and taking falls in it is no more uncomfortable than any other harness. The gear loops are well placed and generously sized, able to take ample loads of gear with little difficulty.

The self locking buckles on the waist and leg loops are smooth to operate and stay locked, there is a discrete tuck away loop for the waist belt and it's all rather tidy. The only quibble I have heard from others is that the straps for the legs loops are a bit fiddly to unhook should you need access for *cough* calls of nature. I haven't had to use this feature yet, though looking at the back of the harness and trying myself I can see how this could be a problem. Understanding/brave friends may be required. The harness is easy to put on over multiple layers and is at home in summer or winter; I've had no difficulty getting this harness on over crampons and bulkier winter waterproof layers.

In a nutshell this harness is full of neat touches and thoughtful features that exemplify Arc'teryx products; the only drawback I can think of is the eye watering price*.

*having said that, having experienced one of their harnesses I can't say that I wouldn't pay the price to own another - I can always sell a kidney.

  • Lightweight
  • Outstanding build quality
  • Excellent design
  • Massively expensive
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I use the Master cam to fill the requirement normally reserved for C3's or Aliens - I have yet to try Aliens but I certainly found they compared favourably to C3's. The four lobe design means they are slightly wider than C3's but the lobes are narrower so they fit well in smaller and thinner placements. The thumb loop makes for easy placements, though the trigger action is very stiff I haven't found this to be a problem - the loop is big enough to be used with gloves though the trigger is a little small if the gloves are bulky.

The great thing I have found about them is when they are placed they feel instantly 'bomber', rather than being a marginal or confidence piece these always feel like they are going to save you - having taken a few falls on the smaller units I can personally testify to their solidity. The sling is enormously strong and thick but quite short - I normally end up extending the unit with a longer runner - especially in deeper placements.

I was initially perturbed by the Kevlar trigger cords and was worried that they would be less durable or prone to wear - I have yet to see any appreciable damage or wear to date and am now more than happy with the assembly. The range-finder on the lobes seems like more of a gimmick than a useful function, while in theory it seems like a good idea I'm not sure how often people examine the lobes up close when placing the piece - useful to see the ideal range (it is slightly narrower on these cams) but in the field I've found little use for it.

Overall these are excellent cams for smaller ranges, the larger units are also excellent but they start to overlap in to the bottom range of C4's, Dragon's etc. and unless you have a requirement for a significantly narrower head profile you may be better served by other units. Definitely recommend.Review...

  • Excellent build quality
  • Light
  • Smooth action
  • slightly smaller camming range
  • Slings a bit short
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I'll be honest from the outset, I love my C4's - unless you have used a C4 it's hard to describe the simple joy from the flawless action on these devices. They have an excellent range thanks to the double axle and I have found that they rarely walk and are easy to clean.

The thumb loop makes for easy, rapid placements even when wearing gloves, or in wobbly desperation on a crux - the loop and trigger design also makes them easy to recover from placements; for these qualities I can forgive them their slightly heavier weight.

The only thing I could really wish for would be an extendable sling akin to the DMM Dragon, though having tried both I still prefer the C4 over the DMM alternative (not that there's much in it). They are a little pricey but they are honestly worth it.

  • Excellent build quality
  • Durability
  • Excellent design
  • Smooth action
  • Expensive... but worth it!
  • A little heavier than some competing models
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The Katana has been my 'go to' climbing shoe of choice for two years now and has been used fairly constantly during this time. Having bought both walking boots and trail running shoes from the La Sportiva stable I have, in the past, found them to be sized a little generously as a brand. Since I wanted a comfortable all day shoe I bought them in my shoe size (42.5) and found them an almost perfect if slightly tight fit (I think the definition seems to be - small amount of discomfort = precise, crippling pain = technical).

The shoe works well out of the box and with the 'new shoe' stiffness is fantastic on small ledges, it never really loses it's faculty with edging though it does compromise as the shoe inevitably softens. As an all round, mid technical shoe it excels with a sensitivity and grip that is outstanding and is thankfully that it can be worn all day with minimal discomfort.

The rubber seems to hold up well to fairly constant abuse and the shoe as a whole is worn but not worn out - the rubber is still sticky and the performance precise with excellent feedback being delivered through the sole unit.

I would have no hesitation in recommending this shoe to others; I will almost certainly be sourcing another pair to replace my current ones and will also consider the lace up version as well (though I personally prefer the easy removal of velcro).

  • Excellent build quality
  • Fit
  • Good design
  • Precise
  • Comfortable
  • Some may prefer laces
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Decent pair of crampons heavy but super durable. Adjust to boot size pretty easily and fits fairly secure. Not much else to say.

  • Excellent build quality
  • Weight
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Another great shoe by La sportiva. Super good edging, great feel and sensitivity. They have a bit of a toe curve not to aggressive great for climbing vertical and even steeper stuff. Ive worn these shoes for an outdoor season and a partial indoor season. The toe does wear down a bit quickly, but not bad the rest of the shoe holds up well.

  • Good design
  • Comfortable
  • Fit
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You can see the thought pattern that occurred when these were designed...someone probably found themselves on a route with a cam that was the wrong size, and thought...lets make one that does more sizes! fair enough...but a really bad idea!!! Let me explain:

So, Omega Pacific have been known to advertise this as being great because instead of having to carry 3 different sized cams, you only have to carry one...but what happens when you've placed it? you don't have a cam anymore...whereas if you had 3 different sizes, you still have two left. Its simple maths really! So, the way around it is to carry 3x link cams...but that's un-doing the weight saving, and costing you nearly double what 3 regular cams would.

How can this make sense!!!?

Admitedly, they might be worthwhile carrying if your leading a group on a scramble or similar, where you might be putting in very occasional gear to protect yourselves moving together, but as a climber, I don't see much use for this 'innovation'?

so, you won't see me carrying them on my harness any time soon

  • Wide range of placements
  • Expensive
  • limited use
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I have had this jacket for just over 3 years now and it has seen all kinds of action, from going to the shops, to high Himalayan adventures and it has served me well.

so a review of the features:
1) The hood: the helmet compatible hood with wire peak fits over all helmets, from my petzl rock helmet to my full face back country skiing helmet and is superb. The 3 levels of adjustment ensure a snug fit with few wind gaps to let the cold in.
2) The zips: "the new 2-way water resistant front zip with internal storm flap" is initally briliant, however is easily damaged through stuffing it into bags and hard use (climbing ect.). This zip also tends to snag around the neck area on the storm flap (as it is internal) which has caused many minutes of frustration.
3) eVent 3 layer fabric: Has good initial DWR properties, and it highly breathable. However this is soon diminished and hereafter requires much maintainence. The fabric has started to "fluff" and wear through around the usual contact points, especially shoulders and hips where bag straps sit.

Conclusion: so to sum up this jacket is increadible, but requires heavy maintainance to keep it that way.... it has served me well.

  • Light
  • Excellent design
  • Fit
  • Windproof
  • Inexpensive
  • Small pack size
  • Robustness
  • Durability
  • Zipper sometimes difficult to operate
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I first used the single rope version of this in New Zealand and loved it instantly, i bought the double version when i got home. When moving from the classic atc type belay devices it can take a while to get used to a slightly new method, but this is very easy to get used to.
Its design allows you to arrest a fall by locking the rope up (kind of like a gri gri). However it lets through a small section of rope as it locks, giving a much more dynamic fall, lowering the stress on the rope, gear and climber, especially good on trad and alpine routes. Although the dead rope must always be held, it gives more piece of mind and the chance of dropping your climber under any circumstance is reduced to virtually none.
You can use this with half ropes and single ropes, and its brilliant for abseiling too.

A little pricey for a belay device, but as a specialist unit for trad and alpine climbing i definitely reccomend this belay device!

  • Easy to use
  • Excellent build quality
  • Self locking
  • Dynamic device
  • Piece of mind
  • A bit pricey
  • A bit bulky on your rack
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The DMM 4CU is a favourite among the circle of climbers around me. I have used them a great deal myself, but i dont get on with them as well as others!

Dont get me wrong, these are very solid, good quality camming units, and they come very cheap!
I just dont on with the double stem thing, and i dont find them easy to place compared to say the WC helium or BD camalot. Especially the smaller sizes, they dont seem very easy to hold (maybe its just me!) They also dont seem to seat as solidy as other units and tend to walk a lot. The extendable sling however is a big plus point, something that other devices should take note of!

Overall they are very affordable and decent units, but for ease and unbeatable quality you cant beat camalots or heliums.

  • Extendable sling
  • Lightweight
  • Good build quality
  • Cheap
  • More fiddly
  • Action could be smoother
  • Tendency to walk
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These new cams from WC supercede the tech friend, and they really are better. They do nothing unique here, but these cams are definitely a benchmark in single stem camming devices.
Over the older tech friends, they have a wider camming range, giving better placements in a variety of situations. They are very lightweight, the unit head especially feels lighter than the stem! They also have a longer stem, allowing you to place them with more control in deep cracks, or awkward far away placements.

In comparison to other brands, they really hold their own, and are good value for money. I would definitely reccomend these, good quality at an affordable price.

  • Good value
  • Excellent build quality
  • Long stem
  • Smooth action
  • Very lightweight
  • Seem less solid than other units
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Theres a reason theyre called friends! Although the new Helium cams have superceded these units, if you can get your hands on one of these you wont be disapointed!

They are well made, highly reliable in most placements and light on your rack. Overall, they are very trustworthy. A couple of negative points are the narrower camming ranges than newer cams, and they can get stiff quite easily when the springs become looser over time. This is the cam i have to clean and maintain most regularly but its simplicity and trustworthyness makes up for it.

These are on sale in a lot of places, so i would reccomend picking some up if your looking for a solid camming device.

  • Cheap (in sale!)
  • Very solid feel
  • Lightweight
  • Lower camming range
  • Can get stiff
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I have owned or used the majority of camming devices available in the UK, and the Black Diamond C4 is by far my favourite! I nearly have the full set and they come with me on every climbing trip.

The smoothness in placing them and cleaning them is superior to other cams with a very useful thumb loop, and in an appropriate placement they always seat well. They are designed brilliantly and are amazingly sturdy. They are slightly more expensive in the UK than other brands, and are a bit heavier also.

I would definitely reccomend these, they are worth the few extra pennies!

  • Smooth action
  • Excellent build quality
  • Slightly expensive
  • Slightly heavier
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Omega Pacific have designed a very unique camming device with the Link Cam, but is it worth having? The advantages on the face of it should be clear. The cam lobes are split into three sections, allowing them to 'unfold' when the trigger is pulled. In theory the cam offers a range that vastly exceeds any other camming devices on the market. This sounds brilliant, however is it all its cracked up to be?

I bought one of these cams in the US a couple of years ago, a number 1 (the red one). It was bought as a novelty item, and with its price tag an expensive one at that! The advantage of having a huge camming range in one unit has been useful on a number of occasions, notably when at a crux or difficult section where gear needs to be placed quickly! Rather than risking the right size in a standard cam and hanging around for longer, the link cam can be picked up and placed quickly in a bigger range of cracks. Having said that, i have never got it to seat as well as other standard cams, and the confidence it provides cannot compare to other brands. The company says itself that placement of these cams must be very carefully done, as any shock movement when loaded can damage the cam and compromise its strength.

Overall, i would not reccomend these camming devices, for the price the unique features are not worth it.

  • Novelty!
  • Innovative design
  • Wide range of placements
  • Expensive
  • Does not inspire confidence
  • More fragile than other units
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Suunto Observer is a solid high quality altimeter watch, in my opinion on more durable side of the Suunto lineup. I.e. no button problems I've had with a few other models. Compared to later Suunto models it lacks the automatic altitude / barometer switch and a few other usability features. A heart rate meter and blood oxygen saturation sensors might be useful as well, later at least in high altitudes (though I'm not aware of any watch type of device that would have the later).

While the display is somewhat hard to read time to time, it's is reasonably easy to use. I have to say that I like their newer Core-type user interface better both in terms of readability as well as ease of use (those menus in Core rock). While all the lithium batteries seem to have challenges in cold Observer performs fairly well. However there's not much help of temperature sensor in minus 20C and below, at least if you need the battery to last a few weeks more.

  • Durable
  • Fairly easy to use
  • Good build quality
  • Not always easy to read
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There's a reason that you see so many people out and about in Mammut clothing...
There's a reason that you see so many people out and about in Base Jumps...

They're exactly right for exactly what you want them for. They're stretchy, comfy, flexible, rugged, light, quick drying, warm(ish)

The BJ's are a soft shell trouser, ideal for a day's summer mountaineering as they're plenty breathable, light enough and easy enough to move around in. Come winter, their quick drying properties, and once again, their comfort and flexibly ensure that, when coupled with a pair of thermal pants below, and some hard shell pants in the bag to go over the top (if needed) they're perfect for that season too!

A massive choice of sizes, both waist and leg length, make them ideal for anyone, regardless of their size.

However...there is the cost! It's pretty shocking, to be fair, and I think it is a bit hard for Mammut to justify, especially as you're not even paying for European Manufacturing (Made in China).

Non-the-less, I wouldn't swap mine for anything, and 4 years down the line, they're still going strong. When the time comes to replace them, I know already what they'll be replaced with...if Mammut still make the Base jump in 6 years time!

  • Comfortable
  • Light
  • Quick drying
  • Stretchy fabric
  • long lasting
  • long and short leg available
  • Cost
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In a way that some cannot, the The Big Pad bridges the gap between pure ground coverage, and maneuverability. With the hybrid hinge, it allows it to be folded in half and then strapped tightly to reduce space. It offers a massive amount of cushion, and doubles as a mattress as well ;) . It is very comfortable while hiking about, due to the well placed shoulder straps, as well as a hip belt for further stability.

  • limited availability (at the moment)
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The essence of bouldering lies in the avoidance of encumbering gear. Climbing light, using technical moves, in fairly compact terrain calls for a method of protecting oneself from the smaller boulders lying around the ones worth climbing. The Organic Simple Crash Pad has been the perfect tool for said task. With straps to secure it tightly, personal items can even be stashed within while hiking from face to face. Durable, it withstands harsh falls even while laying on top of the rough granite of Elephant Rock. It is very light with practical straps to be lugged around on the back, making it ideal for packing into the trunk of even a smaller car on a day trip. Also with a very customer friendly down to earth company producing it, it feels good to support. Intent on their top of the line foam, it is a product that time and time again will keep you fresh for the next climb without injury. An added perk is how customizable the colors can be, to suit your own person, and discern between yours and a friends.

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When I started climbing about four months ago, I found myself looking for my own pair of shoes soon after. Overwhelmed by my inexperience and the amount of options, I went to the local R.E.I. to begin the search. After trying on quite a few pairs I ended up sticking with the Coyote Lace Ups for their comfort, and solid stickiness. Although they are not the most precise pair on the market, they certainly have worked in both indoor and outdoor climbing for durability and comfortability. As a beginner, they have allowed me to progress from a novice to climbing intermediate to advanced V2/V3 climbing with no noticeable falling outs. I have noticed that when slab climbing I have a hard time keeping the tip of the toes firmly planted in smaller holds. Also, beware the stretching leather, and the red dye that will stain the feet

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I managed to pick up a pair of these from V12 in Llanberis, and at the time, they were the last pair in Snowdonia! I've also been lead to believe there is only 80 pairs in the UK! However, if you've not already got some, I'd advise you to wait because these blow most other crampons that I've looked at and tried out of the water!

Their main advantage over other crampons is the amount of modularity they offer. At the moment, mine are set up as monopoints without anti-balling plates, for dry tooling, but in about 5 minutes I could set them up as dual points with anti-balling plates for Winter mountaineering! They also offer to ability to use a front bail for shoes with toe welts, or remove the bail for those without.

Although not as lightweight as the Darts, they climb just as well and the ability to add and remove anti-balling plates and to swap the front points far outweighs the weight benefits of the Dart.

I would recommend these crampons to everyone, they are the best on the market at the moment in my opinion and I would certainly buy them again. The only thing for me, is the high price, but I do believe they are worth every penny!

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Rucksacks are one of those odd items that you can try on as much as you like in the store, but until you're half way round an epic 3 day winter trek, you don't really feel the pros and cons of its comfort.
Also, because they're quite a personal fit, I'm careful not to tell you that it'll be good for you...you might find it the least comfortable pack you've ever worn. However, I'll rave about its design and its features!

One of the problems with a lot of sacks, in my mind, is that they either have too much clutter on the outside, or not enough racking space on the outside, however, deuter seem to have overcome this.

The pack has discreet, close couplings for Ice Axes, not really protruding from the pack, and so minimizing the chances of the catching on rock routes, or when hauling it up behind you. The loops down the front are, again, close in to the pack so as not to be problematic, and allow for the adjustment of the quick and easy ice axe upper strap (velcro)
On the sides are straps that fit your skis, walking poles, or whatever else you want to put in them.
The pack features a full length zip, a wonderful feature which allows you access to all the bags contents without unpacking, and has a readily adjustable lid with extra storage space, and expandable internal storage by releasing the compression straps.

So, all brilliant features, making it a brilliant pack! any you know what...it's damned comfortable too ;)

  • Features
  • axe loops
  • Comfortable
  • Good value
  • Full length zips
  • flexible volume
  • None!
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The karabiner isn't out until July 2012, however they were shown and demo'd at the Outdoor show this year so I thought I post up my first impressions about the karabiner based on holding it and playing around with it for a little while just to give people an idea of what it's all about! The Rocklock is one of 2 karabiners to feature this technology (the gridlock being the other).

Walking into the show on the first day a giant poster informed me that Black Diamond were showing their new Magnetron karabiners; definitely worth a look! The Magnetron system is currently in 2 different karabiners; the grid lock and the rock lock. The concept is simple; 2 small magnets hold the gate closes in the same was the screw does on a screw gate. When the user squeezes the green pressure points on the gate the karabiner can then be opened. Simple concept, very easy to use, and very innovative. Really liked the karabiners, they felt very solid and the Magnetron system was very easy to use! 10/10 for something new!

  • Innovative design!
  • Lighter than a screwgate
  • Smooth action
  • Surprisingly easy to operate
  • Different colours
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£550.....no matter what I think of this jacket the price tag will remain in my head....£550.

Ignoring the fact that I would never buy this jacket for the ridiculous amount of money they are charging for it, below are my first impressions of the worlds most expensive hard shell jacket....

Material: Proshell gortex gives this jacket plenty of waterproofing, waterproof zips throughout make sure that no water will seep in. A removable snow skirt means that the jacket can be customised to your specific trip.

Cut and function: the jacket features a number of articulated sleeves and specific cuts and lengths to mean that you get great freedom of movement when wearing it. The sizing is off, if you are L you will need XL in this jacket, unless you prefer your hard shell in a tight fit (not sure why you would though?). The hood is very adjustable making it easy to wear it over a helmet or not.

Anything else cool?: Not really.

Overall; Mammut are having a laugh with this jacket, I mean I thought the Gipfelgrat was expensive at nearly £400 but this jacket is £550, that is more expensive that Arcteryx, Mountain Equipment or any other brand, the worst thing is that there is nothing (in my opinion that sets this jacket apart from the other high end hard shells out there. The jacket is distinctly uninspiring, the colour scheme is cool yes, the jacket is well built yes, but the price tag is bordering on hillarious, I mean you could buy 2 mountain equipment Kongurs for that price, and still have change? C'mon Mammut......what are you playing at???

  • Great freedom of movement
  • Excellent build quality
  • Colour scheme looks cool
  • The most hillarious price for a hard shell ever
  • Sizing is off
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After the OutDoor show 2011 I was keen to get one of these to test. Thanks to my friends at the Outdoors Company I was able to get one of these for a few weeks to test.

The version I got was the GC (geocache) version, however I am going to ignore the geocaching functionality of this unit as it is not something that interests me in a GPS, but I will add that if you are into geocaching (I'm not) there are a lot of features on this GPS that you will enjoy!

Right so the unit; it's well built, and substantial feeling when you hold it. The loop on the bottom I mentioned in my first impression review below, but it is a very useful feature, and I immediately added a cord lanyard onto it to make sure I didn't lose it. But I really like the feel of the unit.

When you switch it on you are met by a nice looking menu screen that, (in contrast to the etrex 10) is in full colour. The unit is easy to understand, I like to gauge ease of use based on what I can pick up instantly without having to consult the manual, and in this case I was able to pick up everything I wanted from the set without needing the manual at all.

The unit acquired a fix quickly, and maintained this fix both in dense wooded areas and also inside buildings which is unusual for a GPS.

However when looking at this unit I had to compare it to the eTrex 10 that I was testing at the same time. The eTrex 10 uses both GLONASS and GPS - something that the Magellan does not do. Because of this the eTrex is quicker to get a fix, and maintains the fix to a higher accuracy for longer than the Magellan. Aside from this both units function in the same way, accept that the Magellan has a colour screen and the eTrex is monochrome.

To get back to the Magellan, I like it, it's a nice GPS unit and definitely worth considering if you are looking for a basic GPS that doesn't have OS mapping. The eTrex 10 is also worth looking at, but the Magellan has a few features including the geocaching functionality for which it was designed that might make it better than the eTrex 10.

  • Excellent build quality
  • Rugged and waterproof
  • Geocaching built in
  • Lanyard loop
  • Colour screen
  • Easy to use
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GPS technology has rapidly increased over the last 2 years, with the introduction of more and more phones that feature GPS, the outdoor industry has seen massive strides taken in the outdoor GPS handset category. Memory Map have always been at the forefront of electronic mapping, with their software arguably being the most popular and most advanced out there. It is therefore perhaps not surprising that they have ventured into the GPS handset market and produced their own range of handsets that not only integrate with existing maps but also come pre-loaded with 1:50k maps. In this category it is certainly up against some tough competition with units like the Garmin eTrex 30, Dakota and Montana, Satmap Active 10, and other high end sets. So how does the Adventurer 2800 compare?

First things first, straight out of the box this unit feels great. It's solid feeling - the kind of unit you want to take out into the mountains with you. It's also very light (135g with battery), so the unit isn't a huge amount of extra weight to carry. Switching the unit on reveals the vibrant high resolution screen. It displays the maps with beautiful clarity, if you look at other units available it's easy to see why the Adventurer really dwarfs the competition. Below are the stats compared to a couple of other units:

Adventurer: 96,000 pixels, (400 x 240)
Garmin Dakota: 38,400 pixels (240 x 160)
Satmap Active 10: 76,800 (320 x 240)

Looking at the above you can clearly the see the adventurer boasts a far superior screen, and it really does show when looking at maps especially zoomed in. So far so good!

Onto the technical side of things, the adventurer comes with a couple of options for maps, you can buy the unit with either 1:50k national parks or 1:50k entire UK (for a small price difference). In addition to this if you own memory map and have your own maps you can add them on as well on the MicroSD (various sizes available) expansion card. For me this meant I could have 1:25k detail as well, which is a real bonus. The maps are really clear and detailed and show all the data on a 1:25k map not just vector mapping details that are found on some mapping systems. The GPS antennae is very powerful, gaining a fix quickly and efficiently. It maintains this fix even in thickly wooded areas, and inside. I compared the speed of the fix against my Garmin eTrex 10, and the eTrex was faster, however not by much, and considering the Adventurer is able to acquire the fix and place your position on a 1:25k map, it's worth waiting the extra minute!

The touchscreen is easy to use, but does require a bit more effort if wearing gloves, this could be an issue in colder conditions, however you can buy "e-tip" gloves (various shops and brands that mean operation even with gloves on is easy.

Overall I love this unit, it's great value, it's easy to use, its powerful and quick to get a fix, and worth the money bigtime especially if you have Memory Map already and want to use existing map

  • Quick to get a fix
  • Light
  • Good battery life
  • Maps included unlike other GPS handsets
  • High resolution screen
  • Rugged and waterproof
  • Expansion slot for MicroSD
  • Lots of accessories available
  • Great price (starting from £150)
  • Free access to Trailzilla
  • PC software included allowing printing of maps and routes
  • Can be a bit fiddly to operate in gloves, still works though just a bit slower
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And for my 150th review :)....

I bought my Kongur MRT jacket 2 years ago to replace my Millet K jacket as my primary hard shell jacket. I recently managed to aqquire a pair of the matching salopettes to test...

The salopettes are built in the same way as the jacket - tough! The proshell gortex is reinforced in a number of different places to add durability and comfort. The knees, backside and ankles are all reinforced to add extra protection when climbing or moving through rocky areas that could rip or tear. The storm flap on the front adds an extra layer of protection to prevent water intruding on your dryness.

Worth mentioning that you may need to get a size above normal, I'm normally XL and needed XXL in these, definitley try them on first!

Another neat feature of these salopettes is the 3m reflective detailing which echoes that of the jacket. It looks good and really does make a difference in low visibility. The salopettes feature internal gaiters which are useful to keep the snow out (even over a normal gaiter), and they also have full length zips to help get them on over the top of boots. The braces keep the salopettes in position, even when moving around a lot over the day. A pull aside system makes answering the call of nature an easy matter even when fully dressed!

The negative thing about these salopettes is the price, at an eye watering £290 they are the top TOP end of pricing for waterproof trousers, and whilst they are excellent, I'm not sure £290 represents a fair price!

  • Comfortable
  • Excellent build quality
  • Full length zips
  • Reinforcements where needed
  • Thigh pocket
  • 3M reflective detailing
  • PRICE!!
  • sizing is off
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I always use Tech Wash when cleaning my technical garments, afterwards they always seem to have renewed waterproofing, with the water beading on the top rather than being absorbed into it! It's not cheap but you can wash several garments at once, and you do get plenty of washes out of a bottle. Really effective product!

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I have 2 pairs of these and have used them extensively all over the place! They are a great sock on their own, what I particularly like is the fact that they come quite high up the calf. This means should your foot plunge into a dreaded Kinder Scout peat bog over the ankle, your foot will avoid the “over the boot” misery many of us have experienced, and keep your foot dry! I tend to wear these with a second pair of socks underneath, this keeps my foot comfortable, dry and warm, whilst protecting against blisters. Again they have a bit of a rustle due to the waterproofing, however they are great socks and really do what they say on the tin with regards to waterproofing so can’t complain about a bit of noise when putting them on!

So overall what would I say about Sealskinz? Great products, and they keep you dry. Certainly at £20 per pair the socks are not cheap, but they are an ideal piece of kit to keep feet dry on those naff days on the hill and certainly worth investing in! The gloves at £25 are excellent, and better/cheaper than other gloves out there that claim to do the same thing.

  • Comfy
  • Warm
  • Various sizes
  • 100% waterproof
  • Not cheap! - but worth it
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This has been a faithful companion of mine for a number of years now, and has accompanied me all over the place. It is comfortable, waterproof, and cozy. It also comes in tactical olive green for military use. The hat itself does tend to rustle a little bit, I imagine this is due to the waterproof layer including in the hat. I have never liked wearing a hat on the hill, but this one is ideal for me, keeps my head dry and warm all day!

  • Warm
  • Waterproof
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The first piece of kit we will look at are the Sealskinz Ultra grip glove (approx £25). These gloves appealed to me as they were a close fitting, waterproof glove. Useful for maintaining dexterity, whilst remaining warm when wet. I have used these now in Scottish and Welsh winter, high altitude climbing in Morocco, glacier work in Iceland, climbing gritstone HS 4b at Windgather, and many more trips, and can honestly say these bad boys live up to their reputation. They are comfortable and warm, but close fitting enough that tying knots, boot laces and other tasks is simple and doesn’t require them to be taken off. They are also thin enough that they can be worn under a larger pair too. As for the waterproofing on the gloves, you can test this for yourself, stick a small bit of tissue paper in the glove, submerge your hand in a sink full of water, then check the tissue. For me this test left a piece of bone dry tissue!

  • Close fit
  • Comfy
  • Waterproof
  • Warm when wet
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Memory Map has been a stable part of the outdoors for me for a long time. The fact is I have always enjoyed being able to plan my route before a trip, and review it after. With Memory Map you can do just that; in addition to printing off maps, drawing on routes, making calculations about distances, heights, timings etc. All in all its a useful piece of software for just about everything to do with planning a trip. The maps are available in 1:25 and 1:50, as well as aerial shots.

Memory Map also features a 3D view which, as well as being a great planning aid, can be an amazing education tool for young people first learning about OS maps, no more drawing contours on your knuckles! The system can also link up with GPS set and download waypoints from your planned route into your GPS set, useful for keeping yourself on route during the day.

Price; this is the main issue with Memory Map. It is not cheap, this is perhaps an understatement, if you want a 1:50k CD of all the national parks, you are looking at around £30 - a good price to get all of the UK national parks in 1:50 scale mapping....however if you want 1:25k of a single area for example Snowdonia, this will set you back £100. So for a £100 an area, Memory Map is very expensive indeed. Something to bare in mind...

Overall it really is great software, but at the price they charge it really is just a little bit too much

  • 3D view is brilliant
  • Excellent planning tool
  • Compatible with GPS
  • Easy to use
  • Great education tool
  • Different scales
  • Aerial maps available
  • Can be used on smartphones
  • Can choose a custom area
  • Can print off custom maps
  • VERY expensive!!!
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Rockfax guidebooks are brilliant, whilst some prefer the old sketched, vague and traditional guidebooks, I prefer a modernised approach, and Rockfax is nothing if not modern. The high quality topo's indicate routes and grades in an easy to understand way, while the descriptions explain the route clearly and concisely.

Northern Limestone covers a huge area of crags, including the Peak District where I climb most, it has maps to the crags, along with top routes, tick boxes to indicate routes you have done, along with other all sorted information, making this an excellent guidebook for a beautiful place to climb.

  • Easy to understand
  • Simple interface
  • Large area covered
  • Hard to find - out of print
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The phantom is an extremely light screw (or snap) gate karabiner. The karabiner is very lightweight, yet very strong, because of this they are ideal for belays or alpine use where weight is an issue.

The size of this karabiner can be its not ideal for much else, the gate opening isn't massive meaning it's not the karabiner of choice for belay plates and the size can make them a little bit fiddly.

Overall, very small, but the lightweight nature of this karabiner makes it useful for belays.

  • Lightweight
  • Smooth action
  • Strong
  • Small
  • Gate doesn't open that wide
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The phantom is an extremely light snap (or screw) gate karabiner. The size and multi colour options of this karabiner make it ideal for racking cams. The colour allows easy identification of the cam size you want, even muddled amongst other gear on your harness, the lightness of the karabiner mean you are not encumbering yourself anymore than need be, and the smooth action with rope groove make it ideal for clipping the rope.

The phantom is made using I beam construction meaning it is as light as possible, whilst remaining strong, the phantom can also be bought in multi coloured packs of 5 at a discount meaning the cost involved with decking out your cams is reduced. Speaking of cost, they can be quite pricey...look around for offers.

Overall a great little lightweight biner ideal for racking cams (or anything else).

  • Lightweight
  • Different colours available
  • Rope groove
  • Smooth action
  • Pricey!
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The boa is a brilliant karabiner, it's well build, has a smooth locking action, is available with different locking options and (most importantly) it's massive! The size of this karabiner has come in handy many times in my climbing life, and I currently have 3 of them on my rack. They are ideal for any number of things, but for building belays the size of them makes the karabiner invaluable.

The current boa features an I beam construction which is lighter than the previous boa, but still provides that reassuring strength you get with DMM kit. Both the current version and the previous boa, and both strong and reliable pieces of kit, and anyone who doesn't have one on their rack should really think about investing, they can be picked up at good prices in sales UK (and world) wide, so get yourself a boa, you will not be disapointed!

  • Massive
  • Excellent build quality
  • Lightweight
  • Smooth action
  • Various locking options
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....it would be my Gerber. The suspension is head and shoulders above other multi-tools in my opinion, it's lightweight, strong, and most importantly very well priced (can be picked up for as little as £25!).

The knife comes with a collection of blades all of which lock into place with a simple locking system, to unlock simple push the small switch down whilst closing the blade. This is particularly appealing to me, since when I was younger I closed a penknife on my finger by accident....

The needle nose pliers are useful for just about everything; from bending pegs back into shape, to helping build electric circuits. The tool also comes with a durable pouch which can be belt mounted vertically or horizontally to suit your personal preference.

The unfolding action is smooth and easy, the blades are all super tough and can take a real pounding, and overall this is a great piece of kit at a very reasonable price!

  • Lightweight
  • Tough and durable
  • Variety of blades
  • Pouch included
  • Great price
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Luck shined on me in the recent round of UKClimbing.com competitions and I won a £75 Soto stove - a good early Christmas present! The stove was couriered over to me and arrived on the 22nd December.

The Soto Micro Regulator stove comes highly recommended from a number of companies, websites and bloggers, so I was happy to get my hands on one for free!

So what is so special about it? Well the Micro Regulator Stove (here on MRS) is designed to provide a constant output regardless of the internal pressure of the fuel. What this means is that the stove will provide a constant output in the cold (or hot), making it ideal for alpine climbing or expeditions. Sounding good so far huh? At 73g the stove is very light indeed, and comes with a small duffle bag to carry it in. The stove uses

standard screw fix gas canisters, which come in various sizes allowing you to carry as little as you need. On to the stove itself; the arms of the stove fold away to make it slim for storage, I found these a little fiddly initially and they could come undone, however I would put this more down me not being used to it as I don't have these problems any more. The MRS has a stealth igniter making it easy to light. The output is controlled by the small adjuster (also folds away) on the side. It is a very powerful little stove, quickly and efficiently boiling water, ensuring that making brews and boil in the bag meals is a simple and quick affair. At £75 the MRS is not cheap, but so far I have been very impressed with, and the ability of the stove to perform at a consistent level regardless of temperature is something that interests me a great deal.

...but overall, great stove, little on the expensive side, but worth it if you want an uber lightweight, consistent and powerful stove that won't let you down!

  • Powerful
  • Super light
  • Constant output
  • Piezo ignition
  • Price
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"Out with the old in with the new". When I saw Garmin's new range of GPS sets at the OutDoor show, I was in 2 minds; happy that Garmin were looking to improve on the already excellent eTrex systems, but worried that nothing could measure up in terms of simplicity, value and function. However from what I saw at the show I was impressed enough to get one.

At around £100 the etrex is cheaper than it's Magellan equivalent, and with a similar level of functionality. The box comes with a USB cable, and manual in the box, along with the unit. First things first, the unit is light, and comfortable to hold, the buttons on the sides are simple and labelled, the small joystick on the front is a new addition from the old etrex. The unit feels rugged, solid feel, rubberised sides, just the kind of feel you want in an outdoor unit. The batteries are easily inserted by means of a small D ring on the rear of the unit, rotating it pops the battery compartment open. 2 AA batteries later the unit was on, and acquiring satellites.


The unit acquired a 4m fix very quickly, and after a couple of minutes updated this to a 2m fix. On the previous etrex I always found it seemed to take an eternity to get a fix from cold, but with this unit it was quick and efficient. The menu system is simple and easy to navigate, the buttons on the side can be used to scroll up and down if needed, however the joystick on the front can be used to scroll through the menu, and by pressing it you can select the highlighted option. There are a number of options that I personally won't use, fishing, moon and sun etc. However after 5minutes I had the unit configured to British National Grid, the datum's are selected automatically which is useful if you are new to GPS sets. The Map screen is initially blank and only begins to be useful when you are moving, as you move your track is recorded, you can then add waypoints along the route, zoom in or out with the side keys, or move around with the joystick.


In addition the unit has a backlight, which is activated by holding the power button, a pack including a case and belt clip can also be purchased for those who are looking for a more stylish way to carry the unit. The etrex 10 is completely waterproof and dustproof to IPX7 standards.

One new feature of the etrex 10,20 and 30, is that it boasts the fact that it is the only GPS set on the market that can connect to GLONASS and GPS at the same time, decreasing the time it takes to get a fix. For those who don't know, GLONASS is the Russian Federations answer to GPS, which will provide a collection of satellites that can be used by the Russians in a time of war (when GPS is restricted to US use only). Garmin states that by using both systems simultaneously the speed of a fix is increased by 20%.


The only down side about this unit is that it is not capable of accepting expansion maps, however this is not something I care about - if I did I would have bought the etrex 20 or 30

  • Excellent build quality
  • Price
  • Quick fix
  • Rugged
  • Easy to use
  • Comfortable to hold
  • Small and light
  • No expansion maps
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As with every DMM product, these are built supremely well and feel amazing. When placed correctly they feel secure and strong, the shape fits a wide vairety of crack sizes. They are perfect for winter and summer climbing and are light enough to be used in an alpine climbing rack.

Superb job on these.

  • Excellent build quality
  • Lightweight
  • Feels great
  • Solid when placed properly
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Having large feet, I have trouble finding confortable rock shoes that fit me. My last pair of shoes, I couldnt have on for more than one climb before taking them off. Whereas these, I found for £20 in a reduced basket, are the most comfy rock shoes ever! I can wear socks inside!!

Whilst they may not be the most technical shoes on the market, for the grades I climb they are perfect for all day multi-pitching. I would not leave home without these in my rucksack, I have 2 other pairs of shoes and these win every time for comfort.

  • Comfortable
  • great rubber
  • Big feet friendly
  • Lacing system is querky
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This is a lightweight insulated belay jacket, it can compact down very small in a dry bag or stuff sack and will keet you warm even in the nastiest of storms. I have used this in the alps and in scotland and it has worked perfectly each time. It now comes in a stylish array of colours and is just at home at the apres-ski as it is on the mountain.

The hood will accept a helmet and you can cacoon yourself in it when the weather closes in. The Primaloft insulation will keep you warm even when wet. Superb quality as ever by mountain equipment and i will use mine as long as it stands up to my abuse.

  • Super light
  • Great materials
  • Feels great
  • Look great
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As with every DMM product that comes out of their Llanberis factory, quality is key. The bulldog feel great and looks beefy, so when you're looking for something to protect you on loose ground or frozen turf, look no further. The DMM bulldog, when put in securely, feels solid. Having just climbed Mam Tor Gully in the Peak District, the bulldog featured on each pitch and I was glad of it as even the pitons were sketchy.

Great product.

  • Solid when placed properly
  • Feels great
  • Excellent build quality
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I bought these shoes about a year ago and wore them extensively all year for walk ins, scrambling, climbing and just general wear. But signs of wear and tear started to appear after around 6 months! Dont get me wrong, I like these shoes.....but for around £100, you'd have thought that 5.10 would make them a little more robust. But you cant have anything.

I replaced them with a pair of 5.10 guide tennie shoes, and I feel I should have got another pair of Camp Fours. I cannot climb nearly as well in them as the rubber is thinner and therefore slightly harder. The advantage of the think soles on the Camp Fours is that the rubber moulds onto the features of the rock well.

  • Feels great
  • fit
  • great rubber
  • Sticky rubber is great for climbing
  • Comfortable
  • Pricey!
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The dragon is DMM's latest cam, having been a fan of the 4cu and 3cu for a while now, I definitely considered the dragon's worth a look.

The build quality of the dragon cam is truly excellent, it feels solid and well built, it's the kind of thing you want to be putting into the rock to keep you safe, in the past I've felt some cam's can feel a bit flimsy, but not the dragon cam.

They are very lightweight, and whilst comparable to the BD camelot, or WC helium, I believe far superior in terms of the smooth action and annodising for recognition. There are 8 sizes which cover a large range of sizes, and an extendable sling makes them easy to place to reduce friction.

Overall, solid, well built, and smooth, make these the kind of protection that give me confidence when I am climbing.

  • Excellent build quality
  • Lightweight
  • Extendable sling
  • Wide range of sizes
  • Smooth action
  • Pricey!
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An excellent approach shoe, the rubber on the soles is high quality, and good enough to be used for low grade climbs. The shoe has a heel cage at the back that provides great support when walking in with a large pack. The shoe is comfortable and well fitted, I had to go half a size smaller than I would usually have in a shoe (I had 10.5 and I'm usually 11), so definitely worth trying these on rather than buying them online. The shoe also looks great, I know aesthetics isn't necessarily something all climbers look for in their gear, but damn! these look good!

On the down side they are rather expensive, and having been around a couple of years now, they just haven't come down in price at all!

  • Comfortable
  • Great support
  • Look great
  • Sticky rubber is great for climbing
  • Expensive!
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The bearings are great, they stay crisp and efficient even after rolling for miles. I have used these for ziplines and work well to distribute weight across the line. They roll well and are fairly durable. My only complaint is that the clip in point does not hold up to abuse as well as I would like/expect it to as it has shown a fair amount of wear after a moderate amount of use.

  • Nice simple design
  • Efficient
  • not very durable
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This sling is super light, it has minimal bulk, it is extremely supple and is quite versatile. With different lengths it can be used for anchor set ups, extenders and personal anchors. They're colour coded to easily differentiate lengths from the other. They also stand up to abuse well, I've had a number on my rack for several years and besides becoming a bit dirty they're barely fuzzy.

  • Lightweight
  • Supple
  • Minimal bulk
  • Versatile
  • Colour coded
  • Durability
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These cams are a must for soft sandstone as they have double the surface area of most other units on the market, this extended surface area helps spread out the force exerted on the rock during a fall and thus helping prevent the unit from pulling out. The ranges on these unit is similar to WC friends and compliments BD Camalots perfectly. They have a smooth action. The range finder however, in my opinion is off and that experience is a better indicator of whether a unit is under or over cammed.

  • Greater surface area
  • Smooth action
  • Complimentary to other camming units
  • Durable
  • Range finder is inaccurate
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As the title says in the smaller sizes I prefer the larger camming units as they are easier to place, can be walked and are more quickly removed. However from the green size and up (larger than #6 BD camalot) are the only protection usually available for squeeze chimneys and other wideness. Furthermore, these can only be used in perfectly parallel cracks. They also take some finesse to place but once placed they are completely bomber and wont walk.

  • Solid when placed properly
  • Great for extremely wide
  • Range
  • takes lots of practice
  • Not as versatile as cams
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This product is better in smaller sizes as with the larger the stem tends to bend when the unit is being cammed. The extendable sling is nice for reducing drag as well as providing a variety of lengths to clip in to if aiding or at an anchor. The heads are quite narrow but also provide ample surface area which can be nice in softer rock, pockets etc.

  • Narrow head
  • Good Surface area
  • Extendable sling
  • Cheap
  • Soft stem
  • Lobes are a bit thin
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Does what it needs to do and more. It helps loosen up dirt and grit clogging up your friends as well as providing lube, however it is crucial to wipe away any excess after use as it could attract more dirt and worsen your problem. Boiling cam lobes is also some times necessary when lubing, this is not an end all be all but certainly is a step in the right direction.

  • Does what it says it will
  • Fairly cheap
  • Can get many uses out of one bottle
  • Requires additional cleanings sometimes
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Petzl has had this product on the market for years with few if any changes and for good reason. It does everything well, it's compact, durable, simple and as efficient as the user. Perfect for back country areas where one may not want to walk in a full Bosch or Hilti electric drills but for individuals that may want anchors or lots of upper body training. It packs down well as it will accept the bit through the hand guard and wrist strap to keep it from poking holes in your pack.

  • Excellent build quality
  • Light
  • Durability
  • Slower than a power drill
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I have had these more-or-less since they were released, and quite simply, I LOVE them...so why have I changed to a new pair of boots?

These boots are light, sexy, comfortable, nimble, but they let me down in a couple of areas.
Firstly, they weren't as warm as I'd expected, and it might just be me with poor circulation, but I really did get quite cold standing still at belays.
and secondly, was the build quality. Yes, they had a hard life, and the gaiters are ripped to shreads by my poor crampon technique, but when the rubber rand at the toe started to seperate it upset me! and then, one tooth of the zip broke off, in the fold created in front of the ankle as I walk, which was a massive dissapointment :(
Finally...why didn't they use the T-Zip, like Scarpa's Phantom Lights? They rectified this on the Batura Evo, but still, it's a shame they made such an oversight.

I still love them, and I mourn their injuries, and their fall into dis-use...but they've been superseded by the Spantiks for me.

  • Comfortable
  • Light
  • Warm
  • Robustness
  • zipper not waterproof
  • I get cold toes!
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There really isn't much to say, so I'll stick to the facts:

They're Simple, but effective
They're Strong (some of, if not THE strongest on the market)
They're colour coded for quick identification
in a set, they're excellent value!
They offer an excellent range of sizes

not much more to say sorry, they're just really nice to have on the rack, they fit cracks as well as any of the competitors, they're quick and easy to use...they're just Nuts really!

  • Simple
  • Strong
  • Good use of anodisation
  • Excellent value
  • limited availability (at the moment)
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Ok, so it's not as fancy as some of the competition (DMM Dragon Cams), but, once you get over your narcasistic 'sexy-gear' fetish, and start to look at functionality, I think you're going to quickly come around to find yourself interested in some of Kong's offerings.

Single Stem, Single Axle, spacious thumb loop (thats a +point over the affore mentioned competition), captive extendable sling, anodised in different colours for different sizes...what more do you need? nothing? well, thankfully, once Kong had completed the tick list of essential attributes, they kept going, and threw in Light Weight along with a beautifully smooth action, all together equalling one of the nicest single stem cams on the market!

Whilst their availability is still limited in the UK, it has been confirmed that it's going to get better throughout next year, so keep your eyes peeled for these

  • Smooth action
  • Good build quality
  • Good looks
  • Good value
  • Good design
  • Extendable sling
  • Good use of anodisation
  • Cheap (as these things go compared to cams)
  • Comfortable
  • limited availability (at the moment)
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It's hard to try and think of what to write about these pants. I wear them for everything, from walking, to trad climbing, to sport climbing, winter climbing and bouldering. They are my 'outdoorsy' pants and they do a brilliant job!

When I first picked up a pair of these pants, I'd read about them and been told they were good, but I was unsure. They felt lightweight and I liked the fleece lining, but I couldn't believe they would be windproof and waterproof to a certain extent. I was wrong, I've not once felt the wind through these pants, and I've only ever been wet during the worst rain I've ever experienced, every other time these pants have got wet, I've remained dry! They are exceptionally comfortable and they don't inhibit movement at all, which is why I wear them when I climb, even bouldering inside!

They can get a little warm sometimes, but generally for a UK climate, they are brilliant.

I've got no problems with these pants and I would recommend them to anybody, without any hesitation! When I get some more money together, I will be buying the Vapour-rise stretch jacket too!

  • Excellent build quality
  • Light
  • Good design
  • Fit
  • Comfortable
  • Windproof
  • Water resistant
  • Good range of movement
  • Material is thin, could be ripped on sharp rock or crampons!
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Not much to say about the Boa. It's a brilliant HMS, it does a great job. It's perfectly sized for lots of clove hitches and so, it's brilliant for building anchors.

It's a lot lighter than previous versions, due to DMM's new i beam construction techniques, which is a bonus for climbers because it means your rack is slightly lighter.

These are the only HMS's I have on my rack!

  • Light
  • Good build quality
  • Excellent design
  • Cheap compared to quality
  • None!
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I bought this rucksack for use when multipitching, and leading hard mixed climbs. I've not been disappointed! The fit is great, as it sits high on your back, above a harness, so you can access climbing gear on your gear loops easily. The straps are also comfy, although I wouldn't like to carry a really heavy load in it, because the straps are also quite thin, to save weight.

On the subject of weight, I'm amazed how light the bag is, considering it's decent size. I barely realise I'm wearing it, which is nice because it doesn't effect your balance when climbing.

The Granite is made of a very durable material, and I've used it in a few chimneys and hauled it up a few multipitches and it's hardly even scuffed!

The guide book pocket is very useful, as is the internal compartment for storing a hydration bladder. The zip's are easy to use with gloves on, and reasonably waterproof, although not completely!

Overall, the granite is a fantastic bag, its cheap and perfect for multipitching and hard winter climbing, where you may want to carry a belay jacket! However, it could be a bit more waterproof, and I would like the addition of gear straps on the straps, which I believe would be very useful on this bag! The only other problem I would like to point out, is how the rucksack isn't very breathable on your back, I tend to sweat quite a bit when I wear it (walking, not climbing).

Hope this review helps, If you're considering buying this bag, I'd definitely recommend it!

  • Excellent build quality
  • Excellent materials
  • Light
  • Durability
  • Excelent concept
  • Good zips
  • Good haul attachments
  • Amazing fit and shape
  • Good value (cheap)
  • Lack of gear loops
  • Breathability
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I had to add this jacket, because it deserves reviewing!

I am blown away by the performance of the Zion, I bought it at the Kendal Film Festival, because it was reduced to £150 and I am so glad I did. Obviously, it retails at about £300, but it is unlike any jacket I have ever used before.

The wind resistance and water resistance is as good as my £300 Mountain Equipment hardshell, yet it is so much more breathable, I've not sweated noticeably in the Zion since I've started wearing it.

The fit is perfect, and the neoshell material stretches anyway so even when rock or ice climbing, the jacket fits perfectly.

Another great feature it the large, fleece lined, hood. It fits over my Petzl Meteor III, but can also be pulled nice and tight to give a similar fit to that of a balaclava.

I could go on all day, but to sum up, this jacket is brilliant, I've not found one problem, not even little annoying ones. I would highly recommend the Zion to everybody, and I truly believe it is worth the £300 price tag, especially when you consider that it outperforms hardshells, which usually cost £250-£350! An excellent softshell which everybody should have the opportunity to try out!

  • Excellent build quality
  • Incredibly lightweight
  • Excellent design
  • Excelent concept
  • Extremely versatile
  • Amazing material
  • Waterproof
  • Windproof
  • Incredibly breathable
  • Expensive... but worth it!
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I bought this rucksack last year on offer in a small shop in Clapham, Peak District. It's a prefect size for a days walking or climbing, and I tend to use it as my main rucksack. It's nice and lightweight, and very comfortable. The buckles are an excellent innovation, you can open them easily with gloves on. Overall the rucksack is very good, it's cheap and does an excellent job, however I do have a few problems.

The bottom of my rucksack has started to look a bit thin, and I think it will rip through eventually. Also, there is no rain cover, which can be a bit problematic, but only if you don't pack your gear in a waterproof liner, which I now do regularly!

Apart from these two drawbacks, the rucksack is great and I'd buy it again without hesitation!

  • Lightweight
  • Comfortable
  • Cheap
  • Good buckles
  • Robustness
  • Not much padding on straps, some people may dislike this
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I bought the Jokes as my first ever half ropes, and was attracted by the idea that they can be used as single ropes too!

I wouldn't like to use them as singles when sport climbing, because I think they'd get destroyed very quickly with constant redpointing etc. However on trad routes, it's great to be able to just use one rope if the route requires it, but being able to use them both as doubles if I want to.

They handle very well, however they were very slippy at first. The dry treatment on mine is excellent and has stood up to heavy rain whilst multipitching very well!

The only downside is that they are still quite heavy, I think that I should have looked at lighter alternatives, especially considering I want to use these ropes when Winter climbing. However, the added versatility from these ropes is useful!

I'd definitely recommend them anyway, they're miles better than any doubles I've used in the past!

  • Good design
  • Good handling
  • Good colours
  • Versatile
  • Expensive... but worth it!
  • Pretty heavy for half ropes
  • Wouldn't want to abuse them by redpointing etc.
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I just want to write a short review for these. At first, they were perfect, fitted brilliantly and helped me climb V8 slabs no problem! However, after out 9 months, with 4 months of heavy use (3 times per week) and the rest light use (1 time a week), the sole on the shoe has started to develop a small hole and lose it's grip rapidly!

Considering how highly priced these shoes are now, I'm a bit annoyed that I will need to buy a new pair!!

However, they are brilliant shoes, they edge excellently, the heal has been improved radically since the pink anasazi's, and the friction, when new, is unparalleled due to the excellent stealth rubber which 5.10 use.

I will be buying a new pair of these, despite my current pair developing a hole! I'd recommend them to anyone who doesn't spend all their time climbing roofs, for anything from slabs to 30 degrees overhanging, they are excellent!

  • Good build quality
  • Amazing rubber
  • Good design
  • Improved heal design
  • VERY expensive!!!
  • Rubber has won through
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This harness is excellent. I bought it because I was looking for a harness which would be good for all round use, with a bit of sport climbing, mostly trad and winter climbing, and the ability to be used in the alps. The DMM Renegade is excellent for all types of climbing, and I wouldn't hesitate recommending it to others!

The main thing which attracted me to the harness was the way the waist belt can be slid around, so the gear loops are in the perfect position, this enables you to reach gear more easily when climbing. I also liked the way this harness comes with 7 gear loops (My previous harness had 4!). I've never had any problems carrying a complete Winter rack, and I've also found the harness very comfortable when carrying heavy loads.

I can literally not come up with any bad points for the Renegade, the only thing I would include would be a dedicated haul loop, although I don't think the Renegade is aimed at aid climbers anyway. Also, the attachment points for ice screw krabs could be a bit looser, but I'm just searching for bad things now, this harness is perfect!

  • Relatively lightweight
  • Comfortable
  • Excellent build quality
  • Good colour!
  • Excellent gear loops
  • Can find some good deals on the internet
  • No haul loop
  • Pretty high RRP
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The Petzl Meteor is the best lightweight helmet around.

I never used to wear helmets personally, I did own a Petzl Elios, but it looked stupid, was uncomfortable and heavy!! I decided to buy a Meteor because of how light it was and how good the ventilation looked. I was not wrong!

This helmet is so light, you forget that you're wearing it! I've never felt hot or uncomfortable with it on, and for that reason, any climber who objects to helmets because they are uncomfortable, I would urge them to try the Meteor, because it's the opposite of what most people think when they think about helmets!

The chinstrap is brilliant, it can be easily adjusted with gloves on, and also the click system which you adjust at the back of the helmet depending on the circumference on your head is much better than any other adjustment i've used on a helmet before, ensuring the fit is perfect!

Also, helmets look cool nowadays! ;-)

The only downside is the high price, however I think it's a small price to pay for:

a) Saving your life
and
b) Keeping you comfortable whilst protecting you!

  • Excellent build quality
  • Light
  • Excellent design
  • Fit
  • Expensive
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Superb... The only word I can use to describe this amazing piece of equipment.

I bought mine off UKClimbing.com for £80. I've worm it a few times as my outer layer and each time, I've been amazed at how good it is!

It's a bit of a fashion item for some people, I think I counted about 25 in one night at the Kendal Film Festival, but out in the mountains, this is the best piece of equipment I've ever bought!

Firstly, it's amazingly lightweight and it packs up into something not much bigger than the size of a small first aid kit. This makes it an ideal thing to carry up a multipitch, as it can be thrown on when belaying, or climbing.

It is pretty much 100% windproof, I've had it on over a base layer in 90mph winds and not felt the effect of the wind through it. It's amazingly waterproof and would survive in most showers in the UK! Then in terms of warmth, it's perfect, never letting me get too hot or too cold!

The only downside for me is the lack of breathability. I sweat quite a bit whilst wearing this, but at least the sweat doesn't cause the Nano Puff to lose it's insulation qualities! This pullover version would also benefit from having a hood (I'm not sure if they sell pullover hooded versions?).

Other than those two negatives, the Nano Puff is perfect and I would urge every climber to own one!!

  • Excellent build quality
  • Excellent design
  • Durability
  • Fit
  • Excelent concept
  • Versatile
  • Warm
  • Windproof
  • Waterproof
  • Incredibly lightweight
  • Small pack size
  • Cool colours!!
  • Expensive
  • Lack of hood
  • Breathability
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The ME Fitzroy is a perfect belay jacket for Scottish Winter, and even useful on cooler Summer multipitches.

It is relatively lightweight and easy to pack into the small, supplied stuffsack. For the weight, the jacket is pretty warm, even more so when used over your hardshell and midlayer when acting as a booster layer whilst belaying. The jacket offers a good amount of protection from rain and is excellent in strong winds. It has a superb hood which fits over most helmets and large pockets, perfect for chocolates, maps, phone, GPS etc. The zips on the jacket are excellent and easily done up or undone with gloves or mitts on. This jacket can also be picked up for just over £100. For me, it's a lot better value than an equivalent down jacket, which would become useless in the rain anyway!

The only downside to this jacket is that it may lack the warmth for some people in the most extreme conditions, although I've never had any problems at all with this!

  • Light
  • Good design
  • Warm
  • Good hood
  • Good pockets
  • Cheap for what you're getting!
  • Excellent build quality
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It's hard to think of reasons why the Dragon is not the best cam available at the moment. It's easier for me to start this review in a positive way.

The Dragon's holding power is immense, I've fallen onto them on a few occasions, and only ever ripped one out due to me placing it badly! So in terms of holding power, they're pretty much unsurpassable. Also, they are lightweight, not as light as the Helium Friends, but they're not exactly heavy!

The range on them is excellent due to their camming angle. This means that although they're not the lightest on the market, you would need less cams to cover the same ranger, therefore saving weight. This is especially important in Winter Climbing/Alpinism where weight saving is important!

Another bonus is that these cams are anodised, meaning it is possible to quickly select the right sized cam when climbing. (Although this is now the trend for all the newest cams on the market from the major manufacturers) These cams also have one of the smoothest actions I've ever felt in a cam. Despite this not influencing their performance, it's important because you don't want to be fighting with a sticky trigger when you're miles above your last gear!

Finally, the most important thing for me, and the reason why I chose these cams instead of the C4's is the extendable sling. This greatly reduces the chances of the cam walking and also massively reduces rope drag. It also means you don't need to carry extra quickdraws for extending cams, therefore saving weight!

The only negatives I can find with the Dragons is the price, like all cams now, you can expect to pay a lot of money for a full set! Also the lack of a thumb loop means they're not as useful for aid climbing, and a bit more difficult to place in Winter conditions when wearing gloves. DMM definitely missed a trick when not including a thumb loop, which would have made these cams the best n the market by far! Without, they are about equal in performance to the Black Diamond C4's, however the Dragons have the extendable sling!

  • Good build quality
  • Good design
  • Light
  • Good range
  • Extendable sling
  • Good holding power
  • Good use of anodisation
  • Smooth action
  • Lack of thumb loop
  • Expensive
  • C4's have even smoother action
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Brilliant! simply!

There's a lack of harnesses on the market with two buckles on the waist belt. Now some people would argue that the extra buckle = extra weight, but, when your carrying your winter insulation (I'm a bit chunky!) you want to be able to adjust the waistbelt properly to have the belay loop sitting centrally, and the gear loops equally distributed around your waist...with just one buckle, you can only achieve one of my two desires.

So, I've been looking for a two-buckle-belt harness...and now I've got it, so what do I make of it:

It looks nice (always important), it feels really well made, it has the convenient 'Haul Loop' (most commonly used for attaching your chalk bag!)
From the inside, you can see the expanded mesh waist belt, utilising a similar technology to what ArcTeryx have developed to reduce weight, but increase comfort. Not too heavy, not too much padding...just damn good all around.
A re-enforced rope loop goes some way to increasing the life span of the harness too, which is always nice to know

Cost...well...it's mammut, so it's expensive...but, while I was initally shocked at the 'wrong-side-of-£50' price tag, looking around at the harnesses on the market, it seems that £70 isn't actually extortionate anymore...looks like the days of £30 harnesses have passed. So, concluding the cost review, it's distinctly average: not Brilliant value, but not extortionate either

I'm often quite critical of gear, but this just seems so good, there's hardly anything to criticise! I've fallen in love with this harness, and shall be spending many many hours in it, through rain and shine, summer & winter.

  • Weight
  • Fit
  • Good looks
  • Haul Loop
  • not the cheapest
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What was going on when they designed this pack? I'm a big fan of Mammut gear, so had very mixed feelings when I received my Neon Gear from off-of the Internet.
First Impressions count, and the first impressions are good. Like all mammut kit, it looks really good, seems pretty practical with different pockets for different things, and, quite importantly, is very low fuss externally. Some bags have so many attachments and straps etc that just make them catch on things when climbing, where as Mammut have kept external accessories to the bare minimum.
Internally, the bag is well laid out, with clearly identified pockets for the gear, and not too short of space.
Comfort - the critical consideration with any rucsack, is limited. It's by no means uncomfortable, infact, despite appearances, it's actually quite nice to wear, obviously, it'll never be as nice as a properly fitted pack, but then I look at it as a cragging bag, not one for multi-day expeditions!

So, what didn't I like, why were my emotions mixed? Well, its just one silly, niggling fault. The back panel unzips to allow you full access to your gear, which is a nice theory, very well executed by Quencha on their cragging bag, but Mammut seem to have forgotten to allow for a hinge! The foam padding of the back continues down below the extent of the zips, meaning that the back flap tries to remain rigid, and so springing shut every time you let go of it!
The top of the bag has a nice big opening, which opens properly, but because of the depth, and all the pockets, if the back panel doesn't open properly, the whole bag is just flawed, and when you're paying mammut-money, you want the best!

Sorry Mammut, looks like you made it 90% of the way to a good bag...but fell at the last hurdle!

  • Excelent concept
  • Good design
  • Good build quality
  • Comfortable
  • Simple design
  • Difficult to open
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The Wild Country Rockcentrics are the best hexcentrics available on today's market.

They are light and their shape allows them to place in most cracks, and when placed correctly they are bomber, due to their ability to cam into the crack. They are a versatile piece of equipment, which will always give you a confidence boost as a leader. Another major advantage is that they are anodised, which makes selecting the size you require so much easier. The build quality is excellent and they are very durable.

Great value for money (Available for £65), they are an essential item on any trad rack!

  • Excellent build quality
  • Excellent design
  • Good use of anodisation
  • Extremely versatile
  • Excellent durability
  • Lightweight
  • Sometimes it is easier to use wired hexcentrics
  • Some dislike clanging noise
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It’s a good looking, easy handling, solid and reliable quickdraw with perfect reputation all over the world. I would reccomend it for everyone who is not seeking for lowering his gear weight and who is not price-conscious. Spirit Express significantly weights more than a modern quickdraw with wire-gate carabiners. Also carabiners are connected with wide and heavy nylon webbing instead of a narrow dyneema sling. So every time you use Spirit Express, you add extra 20-30g to your harness. Is it a crucial point for you? Mountaineers and ice-climbers should think twice.

  • Excellent build quality
  • Durability
  • Weight
  • Expensive
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This jacket was on offer from Rock + Run for only £24, so I thought I'd give it a go. The jacket is made from a stretchy soft shell material, and although it is thin, it is very windproof, making it ideal for outside sports. I wear mine often for cycling, as it prevents the wind chill without being too warm. It's also useful for climbing outside for the same reasons, though a belay jacket is definitely needed between climbs.

It fits quite snugly, but because of the stretch material does not feel tight or restrictive in any places. It seems to be well made and hardy. I've had mine for quite a while, and it does not show any signs of wear.

The shoulders are softshell cordura and lycra, and the body section is made from rip-stop nylon and spandex to give it the stretch. I think this combination works really well.

There is a water repellant finish to the jackets, which will keep off light showers (and is quite effective in these conditions), but it is not waterproof.

  • Good fit
  • Comfortable
  • Windproof
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These are comfortable approach shoes made in a limited edition by Five Ten. They are very light, and comfortable to wear. The soles are made from Stealth rubber, so offer good grip. However they do feel a bit sweaty as I think the materials are not very natural. Also, the round rubber patches on the soles seem to wear quite quickly. The shoes were however cheaper than most other Five Ten approach shoes, so all things considered, I'm very happy with them.

  • Good value
  • Stylish
  • Comfortable
  • Sweaty
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These trousers from UAX are very much like E9 climbing trousers, but cheaper, and UAX often have sales on certain colour/size combinations, so you can get a bargain. The material is nice and light and the fit is comfortable enough to stretch in all the right directions. Good for bouldering and climbing when it's warm or inside. The elasticated waist also means you could wear some thermals underneath for colder weather.

There are shops in the Czech Republic, but outside there you have to order online from the Czech based website. Orders usually arrive in about a week, and the company are readily contactable in English via email.

  • Good value
  • Unusual brand
  • Available only online
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Petzl Attache 3D is light bright colored screw gate carabiner. It has a large gate opening and is wide enough for tying hitches etc. with ease. The gate operation is smooth and the surface of gate screw is textured enough to provide good grip even in icy conditions.

  • Light
  • Looks good
  • Good build quality
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Bionic Mytholito is groovy looking light HMS carabiner. Exactly as it's big brother Mammut Bionic HMS it feels like quality product, gate and screw locking mechanisms operate smoothly... it also shares the down sides, I would personally prefer rougher surface on screw, the current one just feels too slippery and is difficult to open especially in ice conditions. Mytholito is significantly lighter than its bigger cousin, but still offers a decent sized gate opening, this coupled with clear clip nose makes it good choice for belays, at least when there's no ice around.

I've have also noticed that the gate can get "trapped" in "semi open" position - i.e. the nose locks between the screw and gate so that gate is not properly closed, but the screw is jammed and you need to apply some amount of force in order to first open the gate and then lower the screw. As this happened only when it was racked to my harness in the open position (and it cannot happen when the screw is properly closed), it's not a safety issue, but a bit annoying in any case.

  • Light
  • Good design
  • Excellent build quality
  • Gate opening
  • Surface of the screw
  • Jamming gate
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DMM Shield is a typical high quality stuff from DMM. It has a clear clip nose, which makes the clipping on and off easy. It is reasonably light (though there are lighter alternatives as well) and the shape is such that it helps the carabiner to keep stay aligned with pull direction.

  • Good build quality
  • Good design
  • Clear clip nose
  • Ease of clipping
  • Looks
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DMM does high quality stuff. Shield Quickdraw is not an exception. It's well designed, relatively light and clips on and off with ease. Clear clip nose is simply a must. :-) However it's pretty expensive and weight just a bit more than Petzl's Ange or Wild Country Helium, which I prefer over the Shield, in addition to weight I have to say that some of the competition looks somehow better...

  • Excellent build quality
  • Good design
  • Ease of clipping
  • Durability
  • Just that bit hevier than some of the others
  • Looks
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Positron Quickdraws are high quality and durable but somewhat heavy. They do what they're suposed to do, reliably. Especially the durability of the rubber that holds the rope end carabiner in place has been a positive surprise which last no problem even in harsh winter conditions (I've found that it's a problem for rubber materials used in some other quickdraws).

  • Durable
  • Good build quality
  • Reliability
  • Can take cold condition well
  • Weight
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Dissip is well designed and built piece of equipment. It's compact and light and easy to use, and most importantly it is reusable. The sling provided is good for five falls and can be replaced for another five... of course you're newer supposed to fall while climbing ice, so most people never come to that point. In my opinion Dissip provides very good value amongst shock absorbers.

On the negative side, I'm not sure if the control over the forces involved is as accurate as with stitched -type shock absorbers.

  • Excellent design
  • Good build quality
  • Reusable
  • Light
  • Compact
  • Excellent value
  • Precission of control over forces uncertain
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The standout feature of this harness for me are the magically detaching gear loops. I bought the harness as a light weight sport climbing harness, and did not hang anything heavier than a bunch of quickdraws from it. However the weight of these was sufficient to pull the gear loops off, which is quite a significant problem!

I reverted to using the harness only at the climbing wall, but gave up with this as well, as the harness never softened, and the waist belt was extremely uncomfortable in the event of a fall.

One good point is that the belay loop is very strong, and does not suffer from the same wear as some other harnesses.

Although it looks nice, in my experience, this is a highly impractical climbing harness except perhaps for indoor climbing or top-roping only.

  • Durable belay loop
  • Good range of sizes
  • Gear loops detach themselves
  • Uncomfortable
  • Stiff
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These shoes are billed as designed as an intermediate to advanced all-rounder. In practice, this means that they are a fairly flat shoe, with a comfortable fit. I have found that they are suprisingly sticky when climbing outside, and serviceable on most routes inside. I also have several friends who have picked up pairs of these shoes when they have been on sale, and been very pleasantly suprised by them.

I don't find them suitable for technical climbs, as the flat nature of the soles prevents a completely accurate feeling when standing on tiny edges. It is also difficult to keep pressure through the big toe area as with more aggressive fit shoes. They don't really bend much in the middle, but this is part of the design of being a stiffer more all-rounded shoe. I just prefer a bendier shoe.

These are a very handy pair of shoes to keep as a backup as they will perform well enough in all situations, or as an inexpensive alternative pair.

  • Sticky
  • Comfortable
  • Often on sale
  • Not precise
  • Stiff Soled
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I bought this rucksack as I was looking for a bag which was light on it's own, and did not have a hard reinforced back, as I find this just adds weight, and does not make the bag more comfortable to carry. Arc'Teryx make a lightweight bag, but it lacks any pockets, and is quite expensive. I found the Forclaz bag in Decathalon, and it seemed just right. I have used the bag for a range of uses, carrying things to work on my motorbike, and finding that I can fit everything inside for a day sport climbing. The capacity of the bag, at 36 litres, is quite accomodating, but the material of the bag means it's doesn't feel unnecessarily heavy if you are only carrying a small amount. I have jammed a rope and climbing gear in the bag, to full capacity, and there is no sign of the seams being weakened. You can loosen the straps for the lid of the bag a long way and then tension them again, and this really helps carrying a little extra. It seems like a very good quality product for the price of £39.99 at Decathlon.

The only thing that would make it better would be to have open pockets on the side of the bag for putting bottles of water that are too large to fit in the zipped side pockets on in the main bag.

  • Light
  • Durable
  • Value for money
  • No open side pockets
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These are sold as mid to high level bouldering and sport climbing shoes, and they do not disappoint in these areas. They feel very precise, and inspire confidence in footwork. The extra rubber on top of the toe helps to prevent the toe rubber from being peeled off when toe-hooking. They aren't as severely down-turned as many other higher level climbing shoes, but this does not seem to affect performance. They are much easier to buy in smaller sizes than the Red Chili Matadors, so I assume that Red Chili intend these to fit women's and men's feet similarly.

They are however, quite asymetric, and not consistently so. I have had a few pairs of these, and each time, they seemed to be a slightly different shape, sometimes between the two shoes in a pair. As a result of this, I now have one pair of shoes which are basically unwearable because the right shoe seems to have been twisted much more than the left, making it effectively much smaller. One pair fitting in a certain size does not seem to guarantee than another will, so they are a bit tricky to buy online. They do not seem to be made to quite the same quality as Red Chili's Matadors. Having said all this, I did have the previous incarnation of these shoes, so perhaps these issues have been resolved with the new version. I have bailed on them in favour of the Matadors!

  • Sticky
  • Precise
  • Sizing is unpredictable
  • Build quality a bit variable
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Topnotch multipurpose ice-tool for technical alpine- or ice-climbing.
It could be good enough for dry-tooling but during the whole route you’ll think only about the adze above your head. In my opinion, it’s better to replace the adze by Micro hammer plate (BD4120900000ALL1) or use something else for dry-tooling to avoid injury.
Ergonomic grip is good to handle in normal case but when you try to use adze or hammer and rotate the shaft you come up with certain inconveniences.

  • Excellent build quality
  • Excellent design
  • Balance
  • Stiffness
  • Versatile
  • Ergonomic shaft
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I have two of these + bought one for my son as well. Elios is a good quality, light, simple and easy to use helmet. It can take years of use and still performs okay. Has ventilation, adjustment for different sizes of heads and head lamp clips. Originally I ended up with Elios because the Vizion face shield Petzl offered. Together these two are a great pair for ice climbing. For smaller climbers there's S-version of it.

Over the years there has been some minor changes, like the buckle and slightly slimmer webbing, but essentials are the same. Recommended.

  • Good build quality
  • Good design
  • Good value
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On a one hand, it’s a perfectly manufactured belay device with attractive design and good safety margin. Like other tube style belay devices it doesn’t twist the rope unlike figure 8. Easy to use ATC with it’s guides mode is perfect for multipitch routes. On average, it is a few euros cheaper than Petzl Reverso 3.
On the other hand, it’s 11g heavier than Reverso 3 and also it’s more cumbersome. The difference will be much greater with the advent of Reverse 4.

  • Excellent build quality
  • Excellent design
  • Versatile
  • Ease of use
  • Bulky
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Great lightweight quickdraws that are ideal for packing in your stingy luggage allowance for sport climbing trips. I have a few friends who aren't fans of the thin tape, and prefer chunkier quickdraws, so if you like something substantial to grab hold of then maybe these aren't for you.

I find these easy to handle, light to carry, and they seem to last well too, with the gates remaining in good operational condition. They are also good value for money, and with DMM you're assured a good quality product.

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I've had a couple of pairs of these shoes now, and am a big fan. They're quite an agressive shoe, designed to deliver power with a downturned toe, and they certainly grip the toe to the smallest footholds with no worries.

Despite this though, I find them really very comfortable shoes for long sessions and long routes. I think I could probably get away with wearing them tighter, but going for a comfortable fit does not seem to compromise on performance. I wear them in the same size as my street shoes. They do not stretch very much at all.

They last pretty well, and so far I have always worn the toe rubber down to a sliver before they've sprung any holes, so I don't think they are prone to splitting in weird places.

The velcro closure is very convenient, and three straps means you can get a good tight fit with them. They're much more comfortable for heel hooking than my other shoes, the 5.10 VCRs.

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This shoe with its high rand and the 5.10 Onyx excels on cracks from 1 inch to 4inch, also provides a little extra security with the offset laces. However, because they're crack shoes don't expect them to edge well or have a still sole because that's simply what they were not designed for. A must have for beginner and expert crack climbers alike.

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While I don't own these some of the programs that I have worked with do and in that setting I have used them for building anchors and leading and I feel that while light and study they don't have the bite that aluminium or brass micros do. That being said this makes for easier cleaning but maybe slightly less secure placements in these tiny cracks. I'd prefer to buy a new nut than have it fall out and so I look for nuts that bite well.

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Just the other week this helmet saved a good friend's life. As he was climbing a block pulled hit him and flipped him. The helmet saved his head and while the shock foam inside was spider webbed and the hard plastic exterior was split it definitely did its job in getting him down alive.

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For a less mainstream brand mad rock's ultra light has preformed just as well as the other carabiners on my rack i.e. petzl, BD, Metolius, CAMP etc. and for quite a bit cheaper with comparable weight savings so I'd definitely recommend this product.

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I've felt that this biner doesn't have the longevity of other belay biners that i've encountered as it didn't last nearly as long as the DMM boa or the Petzl Attache. However, it is much larger than the attache which is a plus if using it for munter/italian hitches or other bulky knot work. That being said it's cheap and reliable and won't let you down.

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These ovals are light and as wire gates have minimal gate flutter which when rigging high tension lines can be a problem. They're cheap and easily had which makes them rather convenient. Also, due to their lower weight relative to other ovals it lessens the weight on the line and how the line reacts to the walker.

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Dragons are excellent cams - they're the backbone of my active protection arsenal. They're light, they operate smoothly and their build quality is top of the line. The head feels solid and lobes sit tight. While the build quality doesn't automatically mean that they're safer than others, solid feel and operation make them feel more confident. For me this was one of the reason to discard couple of alternatives. I also like the way how extensible sling works in DMM cams.

  • Excellent build quality
  • Smooth action
  • Light
  • Extendable sling
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The dexterity / warmth ratio of Punishers could be better. It's actually surprising how cold they feel. Besides I feel that from dexterity point of view I'll get the job done with Enforcers, which is much warmer glove, equally well. The another problem with Punishers is the fact that they don't stay dry very well + they do not dry up very easily once soaked. In short when it's warm, I'll stick with more dexterious alternatives, whereas in cold warmer ones.

  • Good fit
  • Fairly durable
  • Warmth to dexterity ratio
  • Gets wet easily
  • Doesn't dry up easily
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Well there isn't much new here! It's a lighter Reverso4. For those of you who don't know the Reverso 3 is an excellent plate, and the Reverso4 is a new version of that!

On the Reverso3

"I owned the previous Reverso and really liked it, except for the horror of having to release it in guide mode under load (very difficult). The Reverso3 has address this issue by creating a small hole in the bottom, this allows you to use a karabiner as a lever to release the slack. Overall the Reverso3 is a great belay plate, the guide mode is good, it is smooth to abseil with, and most of all it works well with all rope diameters (I used a 10.5mm and a 8.1mm). "

The Reverso4 is basically the above but 25% lighter!

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So having visited Magellan the next stop was Garmin and their new eTrex revamp. The eTrex has been a stable GPS in terms of sales and popularity for some time, most likely due to it's ease of use and cost (the eTrex basic model can be picked up for around £50). However Garmin obviously decided it was time for a change around, so their new eTrex series was created. There are 3 models; 10 (£100) ,20 (£130) and 30 (£150). All models have the same interface which consists of a small scroll stick in the top right, and a number of buttons on the sides which control various functions. They all also feature waterproofing up to IPX7 and have a 2.2 inch screen. The pricing is very good, and with only a 33% difference between the top and bottom model's it would definitely be worth considering getting the eTrex 30 for the additional features. The eTrex 10 is a basic model featuring no maps, the 20 comes with a colour screen and expandable memory to allow new maps to be added. The 30 comes with a barometric altimeter for more accurate height readings, a worldwide basemap and a 3 axis compass, as well as wireless sharing for sharing routes between other compatible units. Overall I really liked these units, they were a good size, had good features, good ease of use, and most importantly the price point was excellent (much cheaper than the Magellan units). It should be pointed out however that the Magellan sets include maps where the Garmin sets do not, so factoring in the cost of expanding the maps brings the costs up to around equal. The new eTrex series will be appearing in the UK soon!

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The eXplorist series are Magellan's latest GPS handsets, as well as being available to view and trial at the Magellan stand it was possible to borrow one and test it out. The eXplorist series comes in several models; GC, 310, 510, 610, and 710. All the models

have a loop at the bottom to attach a lanyard (useful feature), waterproof to IPX standards, and include some maps (varies depending on model.

The GC version is designed for Geocaching, and comes with a preloaded database of 1000's of Geocaches. It also comes with a 30 day premium trial on Geocaching.com. It can hold around 10,000 Geocaches. However it does not come with any maps included. The 310 and 510 include world mapping (roads, river, some relief shading, land use worldwide), however the 510 has a larger 3 inch touch screen, and a 3.2 mp camera built in. The 610 and 710 are the 'big daddy's' of the series and both include topographic "summit series" mapping. The summit series mapping is 1:50,000 and includes all the detail you would expect from a map of that scale. The 710 includes turn by turn navigation (US only at moment).

So all in all I liked the eXplorist series, the signal was very constant (even inside the centre), navigation was simple enough using the buttons, I would imagine the touchscreen versions with larger screens would have been even easier to use! Overall, good range of GPS sets, some good features, and the price point is also pretty good.

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This boot was nominated for an OutDoor industry award, and when holding it I can see why! The boot is very well designed and includes an integrated gaiter similar to that in the Scarpa Phantom. It has a strap around the top of the boot to give addition security, a diagonal waterproof zip, and loops inside the boot to aid with putting it on. Of course these are first impressions, but to me the boot felt like an excellent B3 mountaineering boot, however I expect the price tag will reflect the quality of the build! But overall I really liked the Nordwand TL and hopefully will get chance to try them on at some point in the not too distant future!

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Scarpa Phantom Guide is surprisingly well breathable and light, yet still very warm mountaineering shoe. While breathable it's also waterproof. The materials of the shoe also seem to absorb less water than some other shoes thus again keeping the shoe lighter even in wet conditions. Scarpa Phantom Guide wraps around ones feet well and feels very accurate, yet still flexible enough for all kinds of moves you need to do while ice climbing. It climbs well and feels good throughout the day - no blisters what so ever. The build and design quality are overall excellent.

All this being said, I'm not yet sure if I like the way the lover part is tightened up. In a way it's very handy, especially to open, once you get used to it, but on the other hand I kind of like more traditional approach. Integrated gaiter also makes the lacing overall a bit more difficult - but that's the way things are with almost all integrated gaiters.

  • Light
  • Fits well
  • Breathable
  • Warm
  • Accurate when climbing
  • Flexible enough
  • No blisters
  • Excellent build quality
  • Zipper sometimes difficult to operate
  • Looks ugly
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I have had this rope for about 2 years now and it has taken me from my first lead to my first multi-pitch to my first HVS. I'm no great climber, and so it helps to have a rope that doesn't mind that. My rope is now quite furry after being rubbed up and down so many gritstone crags, but there are no bad spots on it and I won't be trading it in for a new sparkling one for a while yet. It isn't the lightest single in the world, but this helps give it a more substantial feel, and thus, makes a beginner more confident when leading or seconding. Ultimately I wish I had gone for the dry treated version, as it seems to stop them furring up so quicly, and it would suit the British climate better, but I love this rope anyway. A must have for beginners!

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After owning a Beal Top Gun for two years I needed a good rope for multi-pitches, and something that was dry treated for my sometimes rain filled trips to the Lakes. The technical spec on these ropes is impresive with a high number of falls and a low impact force. This means I don't have to worry about taking a fall and having to retire the ropes. There are thinner ropes available, but these will last a lot longer. Also, I can use them for anything icey I move onto in the future. I found the dry treatment helped stop them getting furry as quickly as my Top Gun too which is better for handling. When these eventually come to the end of their lives, I will definitely be buying another pair. For a broad spectrum of climbing, these ropes are the best!

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I brought these when I was new to the sport (climbing on grit) and I've never had a problem placing them anywhere. The sizes are perfectly spaced and with the colour coded lables and heads I always know which nut to select. I have had no issue with these at all and, apart from replacing the stuck ones I've fallen on, I won't be buying any more of these for a long time to come. Simply fantastic!

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It's exactly what it says; A HMS carabiner. It's large, feels like a quality product, gate and screw locking mechanisms operate smoothly. As I'm using it for ice climbing I would prefer rougher surface on screw; current one feels a bit slippery and if gate freezes it's therefore more difficult to get open.

  • Size to weight ratio
  • Excellent build quality
  • Smooth operation
  • Surface of the screw
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This helmet looks a bit silly because the front doesn't come down very low however this could be a plus depending on if you wish to wear a baseball cap underneath as it could fit nicely. There isn't a ton of neck coverage either however the vents on top are screened over which'll prevent snow/ice and other debris from pouring in if you're into grubby FAs or ice climbing.

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Probably the best value for money quick draws available at the moment. Considering the price they are very light weight and are excellently designed to work with you when climbing. Great for sport climbing or trad, these are perfect if you are looking to build up your first rack.
Lighter options are available but you have to pay a premium for them. If absolute feather light climbing is not required these are a great choice.

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These are a really great pair of climbing shoes. The rubber is really grippy with a nice edge. They are comfortable but offer a close fitting cut with plenty of control. Currently on sale at Field and Trek for a bargain price.

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This harness served me faithfully for many years and now it is time to replace it and summarize my usage experience.
Overall, Tango is a comfortable and inexpensive harness. It doesn't have Petzl's or BD's attraction but you also can entrust it your life.
The weak spot is classic buckle that must be passed through 3 times. It would be problematic to do this with frozen palms. In normal circumstances it takes too much time to get the sling back where necessary.

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A little known tid bit about this the WC hexes is that if the dyneema is cut the alternating sizes will fit inside of each other and can easily be reslung with cordalette so if you're traveling and space is an issue that's something to consider.

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This device does exactly what it says it will, it locks up in autoblock mode, feeds fairly smoothly also in that mode, works well as a normal ATC device and is pretty durable My only gripes are that the cable underneath does not parallel the slots which is supposed to prevent it from locking up which i have not found to be helpful at all, rather it can rub on the rope and as a result has worn through mine to the bare cable. Another gripe is that it can be fairly difficult to lower someone off in auto block mode. At the time it was well worth the money, as it was cheaper than other auto blocks, and is lighter than most, however with so many available I would recommend the Guide or Mammut's ATC Autoblock (vader I think)

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One of the best shoes on the market for crack climbing although I'd recommend slathering some freesole or barge cement on the top to prevent them from wearing through. They're sensitive and the rubber is some of the best! They're made of real leather so be prepared for them to stretch some so size accordingly.

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I sized these true to my street shoe as I have for other Evolv products and had to return it for a 1/2 size up, these are still too small and so I would recommend going a full size up from your street shoe, based on my experience unless you want an extremely uncomfortably tight fit which is what a 1/2 size up got me. However, they're well constructed, super aggressive and look pretty sleek.

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These are definitely the best TCU's I've had the pleasure of using, they have a smooth trigger action, the extendable sling is an awesome feature that I regularly use and appreciate, they're durable, light as a feather and look pretty rad too. I would definitely recommend these things.

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They're light, have a great action and great holding power and compliment BD sizing perfectly. However the TCU's have on occasion walked a bit more than other cams as I've found they will pivot off of the center lobe when there's some rope drag if not extended enough. However that's my only complaint otherwise they have met and/or exceeded my expectations.

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These offsets perfectly compliment the larger alloy offsets that DMM makes. The largest in this set is the same as the smallest in the alloy. These things are rated to far higher forces than other pieces of similar size, they bite well into many rock types, seat well in flares and the upper sizes have that signature well like other DMM pieces so that the piece isn't fully resting on a crystal or a little bump. They're fairly durable considering they're made of brass, however the wires can be bent fairly easily so instead of yanking up when cleaning consider spending the extra few seconds to bump them out with a nut too. From what I understand they're a must have on the aid rack, I'd also consider them an extremely handy trick to have up your sleeve when free climbing. They really excel in thin flared granite cracks as well as similar sandstone cracks.

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The helmet itself is very ventilated; perhaps one of the reasons it's so popular with world class climbers and instructors. The helmet comes in one size (53-61cm),
and is easily adjusted via the clips at the back. Personally I found these buckles dig into the bag of my head a little bit when first putting the helmet on, however it's fine after that. The shape of the helmet is odd, it comes down very low on the forehead (lower than I would normally have my helmet). The thing with this helmet is that when you are wearing it you feel cool, you feel like a real pro. Perhaps it's because of the helmets reputation for being used by the pro's, or perhaps it's because is does actually look pretty cool when it's on. I did also find it keeps my head nice and cool. In the past I had found other Petzl helmets make my head sweat because of the daft foam they insist in padding out the front of the helmet with. The Meteor III+ however has foam inside more like cycle helmet foam, and at 235g it's incredibly light. I wore it the whole 4 hours with no problems, and barely noticed I had it on!

So in summary.....yeah its cool, and if you can pick it up on offer, definately worth getting, £70 is a bit steep, but it will keep your head nice and cool - a rarity in climbing helmets!

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These units seem to fit perfectly in between the sizing for BD camalots and so compliment them well, they're easy to place, fairly light and have a fair bit of surface area.

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These cams are awesome in the smaller sizes (yellow down to grey) however the largest two (green and black) have a stiff enough trigger action and a soft enough stem that they can collapse in your hand rather than cam down, particularly alarming when pumped and trying to get in that crucial placement so be warned. However, the stem isn't an issue with the smaller sizes and is really a pro as it prevents walking. The kevlar that attaches the cams to the trigger can be damaged if it rubs on a sharp edge. Overall I would recommend the 4 smallest units.

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I have a selection of these nuts amongst my many types. and when i place the wild country rocks, they fit the rock alot better than other brands.. there shape allows precision placements, and to top it off, they pretty light too. so all round good product.

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Taken this sleeping bag everywhere i've camped, and i have had absolueetly no problems with it. I unfortunately havent tested the comfort level when its cold, but for camping in the wet cold UK, it has been really nice. it thickness and smothness make it so comfortable, its almost like sleeping in a bed.

thanks for the great product.

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These were my first pair of climbing shoes, and i have to say, they were great, as said below, they were so comfortable, yet the friction was brilliant, for beginners, was a great introduction to red chilli, and been with them ever since..

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Had this item for a few months now, and have used it for a wide variety of activities. This helmet is perfect in many ways. its light, so you near enough forget your wearing it, on those long days climbing. fits nicely to the head, and provide the good protection.. Definitely the best all round helmet i have had..

Thanks petzl

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I started out with kit before I knew what I was going to do with it. Silly I know, but this helmet was the most flexible option. I've used it for trad climbing since I started outside and its never let me down. But more importantly, when I eventually get round to winter mountaineering, I don't need a new helmet. You can basically take it anywhere! Comfort wise, I think the petzl helmets are more comfortable, but with less padding this helmet doesn't make my head sweat. The headtourch elastics are much better than clips and, in bright yellow, you know someone can find you if ever get a bit stuck!

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Ive ahd the grigri2 for a while now, and i have mixed opinions about it. I love the size, and i love the weight, it is so handy or multi pitching, especially when bringing up a second. However my opinion is, that despite the size, the gri gri2 in my eyes isn't as smooth operating than the grigri. im hoping its due to the fact its not warn in yet. and i hope so, as it can get annoying when lowering, or lead belaying.

but i wont let that put me off using it. hopefully, i will get it their.

Thanks petzl

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Ive been working down at my local climbing wall for sometime now, and after speaking to numerous people about shoes, they are incredibly popular especially around the beginner level climbers. since this i gave them ago, and they are so comfy, and still have good traction over medium to small crimps, i did find that unlike my more aggressive climbing shoes, the jokers made me feel that the smaller the hold, the more force i have to put n my hands. but super shoes for those big juggy climbing holds, gave loads of foot support.

Due to this, these are my advised shoes to beginners, and haven't had any complaints yet.

good work

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I have a couple of the dragon cams, and despite the set backs with the recalling, i have to say its a brilliant and worthwhile investment. Since having these, i have moved my others onto the subs bench..

They fit so nicely and efficiently into numerous size cracks with ease. Then once its placed, you feel safe due to its tight fitting.. And after taking a few falls on them, i've yet to have one come out. BRILLIANT.

Great piece of gear, thanks DMM

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I love these hex's. I am a Wild Country nut, but I prefere the design of these hex's to DMM's. The dyneema cord stops them from lifting out of cracks, but this does still happen if they are in a resting placement. Use them as a chock and they are bomber! The colours are nice, but are not essential, as the difference between them is massive. I'll never change to wired hex's, thats for certain.

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Brilliant shoe, although i should have got a size up! good edges and nice fitting heel, the Anasazi Verde are an excellent balanced shoe for those who need an all - round shoe. with the fit i got (ok it was a bit too tight) i could leave them loose and climb at an easy pace or pull the laces tight for a procession fit for when you feel like pushing your grade. I do miss these shoes, and when i can afford it im going to buy a new pair. Only down sides the do seem narrower then standard Anasazi's

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I got Jokers as my comfy shoe, and to be honest they where a waste of time, the lost stickiness after a few months and got discoloured when they got wet (i got caught out in the rain) as my local rock type is grit stone stickiness is your confidence as there tends to be a lot of smearing involved with it. I soon moved over to 5:10 for this reason. Good points though, good fit if you have wide feet and not bad for a gym (indoor wall) shoe

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This device is probably one of my more disliked belay devices, on principle its not bad; Tapered device to make using it one way slick and the other more grippy. Being on the end of one many times i found that it was either grippy or extra grippy. Stiff to take in on either side and just as bad to pay out rope. Being lowered off when your belayer is using one is no fun either, it feels like juddering all the way down and really insecure. would not recommend this to anyone personally

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La Sportiva Katana is the best climbing shoe I've climbed with so far (though I haven't owned too many pairs to be quite honest). It fits extremely well, feels good in your foot but yet have a sharp accurate touch to the rock. I bought these for long multi-pitch routes and the seem to be spot on, no problems of keeping them on even for longer periods of time. While I can't yet comment on their durability, their finishing and overall quality seems to be excellent.

  • Accurate when climbing
  • Excellent build quality
  • Fits well
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I bought this after i have been let down by buying cheaper bas that where out on the market. Its been absolutely bomber and I chuck it around quite a bit, my only gripe with it is that it doesn't come with a rain cover but nothing an extra £5 wont fix. The A frame design means that you can postion all the weight correctly and is quite comfortable even when hauling your gear up mountains to get to crags. Pros- if you shop around cheap - strong build - easily customisable Cons - no rain cover - waist strap fixed - lack of side pockets (i assume this is because the new version is also aimed at Skiers as well)

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I have several pairs of such gloves and I'm very pleased with them. They are wear-resistant and get dry quiet fast on your hands. Also they are cheaper than European brands gloves. Lack of only one, but for me a very serious — unsteady product quality! I.e. inner elastic can peel off the gloves or a seam can suddenly break off!
I hope that in future such surprises will not happen.

  • Cheap compared to quality
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After Finally taking the plunge, i brought this half rope at a reasonable price from my local store and so far it served me well. Thin enough to notice the difference from a single rope, and i find that it tangles up very quickly, i think half the time im climbing up multi pitches is spent trying to get this rope untangled. Overall a very strong rope and light weight too, and come with basic dry treatment at the base level, what more could you want

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I can't feel big difference between climbing in a gym or rock surfaces with them. You will have difficulty in setting foot in friction, as well as on micro holds. However, tight sole rubber will well exercise your leg.
After a year of wearing (mainly in the gym and a few times on the rocks) the heel fabric rubbed and a small burr on the toe appeared. But in general they have maintained their shape and not too stretched.

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I have a few helmets for different situations; a meteor for alpine climbing, an elios for work and a salamander for winter and general use. I like the shape and fit of the salamander. I sits securely on your head and its crash hat design allows it to fir the shape of your head better to give added protection. It is faily light, not as light as the meteor, but not as heavy as the Rock Star. It is very warm and is spacious enough to wear a hat/balaclava underneath for that awesome scottish winter weather. Mine is now plastered in stickers to give it that cool look. It has servedme well and sits atop my gear mountain in my house and is brought out on just about every trip and serves me well.

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The phantom screwgate from DMM is not as good, in my opinion, as its sibling, the truscrew, in the small screwgate family. I do think it is better than the Wild Country Titan, but its shape makes it lose points against others. Worth a buy, but you'd be better off looking at Grivels new biners or the Truscrew.

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I find these oversized HMS biners amazing. They are just afantastic thing to have on your harness for both rigging and building belays. Its ability to take a load of clovehitches just makes this the bee's knees. Worth its weight in gold...

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The Black Diamond ATC is a well thought out and designed belay plate, it provides the user with a simple and easy to use no frills sticht plate. This is excellent for novices who would find the more complicated guide plates confusing. Therefore these are good for centre use.

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I use these at work and they serve their purpose well. As a durable and light helmet that can stand up to everyday wear, these fit the bill. By adaptable for Caving and Climbing, the Petzl Elios really markets well for the outdoor industry. Worth its price, for a very comfy and vented helemt for year round use.

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This small karabiner from DMM provides a good shape and weight to be able to carry a few on your harness for use in building a belay station or rigging up a climb for clients. However, its size means that only one knot can be used on each biner, which hinders it. Stiff competition is given from the larger HMS biners. Very adequate for the task.

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These are possibly THE most irritating karabiners i have ever owned. I attribute this to the stupid position it racks your gear in and the way you cannot see which end is which when you try to open the gate. I was climbing the other day and nearly showered my belayer in hexes when i'd tried to take one off the biner. I wish i had never bought this biner and as such i have removed it from my rack and replaced it witha far more superior and cheaper alternative; the DMM Phantom Snapgate. It is lighter and far easier to keep control of my gear. DO NOT BUY AN OVAL! The oval screwgate on the other hand i feel diserves its place at the table.

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I bought this harness two years ago and i have used it unrelentingly since then. I have used it for gorge walking, winter mountaineering, ice climbing, via ferrata, climbing and when i'm working on the centres' high ropes course. It is basic and comfortable, supplying the features needed i.e. comprehensive amount of gear loops, a padded waist and buckles which require personally to be doubled back. I feel this is desirable as the only failure from the harnesses buckles would be from human negligance and not the failure of those stupid self locking things. For the amount this harness costs, it is, in my opinion, far superior to others from Wild Country or ArcTeryx.

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These are possibly THE best bits of trad protection i have ever owned. The design was purchased from Hugh Banner (HB) a few years ago when HB went out of business. HB being the company responsible for the cutting edge quadcam, the first of its kind of 4 cam head protection. DMM however, made some changes that improved the old successful design of the offset nuts. These heavily tapered nuts are amazing, they fit perfectly in shallow flares where most other stoppers feel very tenuous. Their shape is amazing for almost any rock type. With only five sizes they won't be the only set of nuts on your rack, but they are very useful nonetheless. While expensive, these are the most versatile nut on the market. If you are into aid climbing these nuts are a must have. If you are cam obsessed and only place nuts when lacking in a decent cam placement, you'll find yourself reaching for these. These are an excellent nut; completely bomb proof in many places where most other nuts fall short.

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comfy helmet due to the mesh inner which creates an air gap between the top of the helmet and your head, fits like the Elios but sit a bit taller on your head. or in my friends wording makes you look like a berk. i couldn't careless it fits nicely it adjusts well and it does its job of protecting your noodle. Also the air gaps can be closed off to make it a bit more water proof using the velcro backed padding that comes with it Pros - comfy - cool little features Cons - Pricey

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The wild country blaze is you basic solid gate 'biner, has the usual flaws with gate rattle but other then that it has smooth action and is very suitable for all things you would need it for... including keeping your exhaust on your car. Pros - smooth action - cheap Cons - not light weight

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I bought this harness when i first started climbing and its been perfect for most of my needs. I got this because of the comfort of the harness, it has a thick mesh which stops the webbing digging in but at a cost in warm weather this harness gets incredible warm around your waist. The ziplock buckles are really easy to use and as long as you pull the webbing through the elastic loops it wont undo its self... this has only ever happend to me once but it does loosen through out the day. One of my only gripes is the front gear loops, they have a habit of directing the gear towards the front not a problem until you want rock over and all the gear is over your legs. Pros - comfortable - 5 gear loops - multiple features. Cons - Ziplock can slacken - webbing can dig in ove long periods of time - can get uncomfortable warm in it

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These HOT quickdraws with new G2 carabiners may come to your liking. They have an acceptable weight in both groups (classic and wire latches) and new G2 carabiners now have clear clip noses.
To save money, you can buy variations of the past.

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To Start I must say I have been through many climbing shoes, unfortunately it has very little to do with wear, just a series of bad choices. Also like with all climbing shoes, you need to try on many types until you find ones that fit you.


The 5:10 Rogues, have long been my favorite now, they are the first climbing shoe to fit my feet with the 50/50 balance between comfort and precision. I can wear these shoes all day long and not suffer to much in them. I have also been able to push my grade quite a lot since i have owned these.


Only Issue with these shoes is the smell they produce after a hard session climbing... or even if the get luke warm!, after a month or so they gain a bad smell but this is a small price to pay for the performance you get out of them.


Pros
- C4 stealth Rubber
- Snug fit
-Velcro release
- Very little stretch


Cons
- Smelly
- Smelly
- Can dig in at times

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When I first got into climbing, I had not much money to start out with, So buying the first parts of my rack was on a budget.

Getting the Wildcountry classic rocks was the most economical at the time and I haven't looked back since, they are a brilliant bit of kit and simple to use, ok so they are not anodised but I have never found this a problem.

They fit most placements you can find for them and because they are smooth backed it means that you can double them up for awkward placements or when you have already used the bigger bit of gear.

They are a strong bit of kit as I have fallen on them several times and only have had to replace one of them due to it welding its self into the rock!

If I could go back and choose again I would still pick these over anodised rocks as they have proven there worth and there simplicity allows you to get to know the kit by size not colour.

Pro's
- Cheap
- Effective design
- Can be doubled up

Con's
- Not Anodised (but in my opinion not a bad thing)
- Can only buy in the 1-10 set
- you dont look as flashy as someone with anodised ones

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Petzl Reversino is basically a scaled down version of Reverso 2. It offers the same functions and is equally good quality. I've found though that it's a bit too small. It's difficult to get even the skinniest ropes in with gloves on.

  • Good build quality
  • Light
  • Breaking power
  • Too small for some ropes
  • Versatibility
  • Manuaverability
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I have to say my first impression is "solid". They feel great, one problem for me with lightweight screwgates has been that they don't feel strong enough. This karabiner is billed my Stubai as being one of the lightest screwgates out there. At 60g there are several lighter than it, the DMM Phantom, and Black Diamond vaporlock to name 2. However having held both of them neither feel as good as the Stubai Atomy. Stubai themselves have been a company I have never seen much of, they aren't widely available in the UK, however in Europe they are much bigger, and with products like the Atomy it's easy to say why. Stubai make the point that they could have made this karabiner lighter:

"We could have gone even lighter with an aluminium castor, but we couldn’t compromise on the top performance of brass"

The Atomy is also much stronger in tests that the lighter karabiners out there, making it a good choice for people like me who enjoy having lighter kit, but also enjoy the reassurance of strong kit! The Atomy has an anti snag nose, a smooth screwgate action, and is anodised red (which just looks cool!).

Technical data:

Breaking strain 26 kN / 8 kN / 10 kN
Gate clearance 16 mm
Exterior dimensions 101 x 54 mm
Weight 60 g
Tested to Norm CE EN 12275, EN 362, UIAA 121

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The Ange Finesse is Petzl's latest innovation in climbing hardware. The Ange is Petzl's latest karabiner, and is combined with the Finesse; a 10 mm wide Dyneema® sling. The Ange comes in 2 different sizes the Ange "S" (Small) and the Ange "L" (Large). The different karabiners can be combined with the Finesse to provide a quickdraw tailored to your needs as a climbing. For example:

Ange S on top and bottom, combined with the Finesse sling would provided minimalist weight

Ange S on top and Ange L on bottom with the Finesse sling would provide a good balance of weight and functionality, as the Ange L on the rope end would provide maximum gate opening size.


Ange L on top and bottom, combined with the Finesse sling would provide maximum usability with the large gate opening sizes.

However at a price of over £110 for a set of 5 these are not cheap! But are they worth the money? I guess time and a day at the crag will tell! One thing that strikes me about these quickdraws is that considering how light they are (63g each) they feel quite substantial. The gate opens very wide due to the single strand/post gate, and it has a gate opening size of 23mm (Ange S). The Ange Finesse has some other good features; A small groove in the karabiners keeps the sling in the correct position, Petzl's MonoFil Keylock ensures snag free clipping, and the rubber clip at the rope end ensures the karabiner stays in the correct position.

The Ange S (28g) is not the lightest karabiner out there, is it 2g heavier than the DMM phantom (26g), 5g heavier than the Camo Nano (23g), however the clean nose, and snag free clipping does make it a smarter choice than both of the above.

Overall, the Ange Finesse seems to be very well designed and built

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Really useful for those tricky placements where your normal nuts doesn't fit. Flaring cracks, corners etc... However, care must be taken when placing them because it's really easy to put them in a flaring placement where they look really good but can't handle any outward force at all except for the little generated by crystals digging in when seating them.

Build quality - top-notch! Color coded to match DMM's normal Wallnuts, also the same colors as Wild Country's nuts, other brands don't know.

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Best iceclipper out there IMO! I always have 4 of these on my harness when iceclimbing, two on each side which I rack all my icescrews on, the tongue makes them stay put and the small "fin" on the top means you can flip a couple of screws up there to get one that sit further in.

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I use both these and DMM's Dragon cams, for pure tradclimbing I think the Dragons are better but for aid or winterclimbing, I definately prefer these. The thumbloop makes them really easy to place even when you are wearing gloves and the double axles gives them a wide range! They are a little bit heavier than some other single axle cams but definately worth it IMO!

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Really great lightweight screwgate, always carry a couple on the back of my harness. Only downside is that it's too small to effectively be used with a munterhitch.

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Nice for racking the screws but Petzl's are definately better as they "lock down" better to the harness making them less flimsy and also staying put better.

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It's great, just about the right size to take down jacket, some water, warm drink, light snack and a few slings that you need while up there climbing. Just that there's the added bonus of having a gear sling. It's really great piece of gear, I'm using it practically on all of my climbs.

Actually I have the previous model (Grivel Manu), but it's essentially the same product with different name.

  • Excelent concept
  • Gear loops
  • Light
  • Versatible
  • Shlighlty too small
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I had a pair of Monster Dogs, but with two upcoming trips to the alps, the lenses werent up to scratch. I bought them for £55 in a sale and sold them for £40, so for a years worth of use i only lost £15 on them. I wanted to replace them with a better pair and after recommendation from Chris (below) i decided to get a pair of Straight Jackets. They were on sale in Go Outdoors for £112 so i went for them. So far, they have proven themselves worthy.

They are comfy and sturdy. They don't let through too much light, so they are perfect for snow and water use. They are Black Polarized Iridium Lenses.

But they also look really cool!

Very Impressed

10/10

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Having bought this boot for the Scottish winter season this year (2010/2011) i was very disappointed to find some major issues with fundamental elements of the boot.

With the new zip system I must say that it may be new but it is definitely not improved. After using the boots twice one zip burst leaving me with a 'waterproof zip' that is not waterproof. The second problem i have is the waterproof seal on the inner of the gaiters did not take long at all to be worn and shredded by the cleats for the laces. Again this has now compromised the waterproofing of the boot.

I am very disappointed to get such a wanting level of quality from a manufacturer to whom i have always looked for good kit.

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Basic requirements to the chalk bag met at its best:

- The palm freely and fully fits inside the pouch;
- Fluffy fabric inside (faux fur) is well impregnated with magnesium and helps to wipe the palm.
- zippered pocket for small items

Unfortunately bag comes without any belt.

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Excellent T-shirt for outdoor activities — lightweight, comfortable and dries really quickly.

  • Light
  • Quick drying
  • Expensive
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I got these jokers when I first started out, they were brilliant and sticky, however after 7 months they no longer as sticky and they are really bad for indoor climbing, however for outdoor climbing they are excellent and I have had no problems :)

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These are the best cams out there.. the fingerloop makes them so easy to place and they are not too heavy.. very pricey but I think they are worth the purchase..

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Ive had this chalkbag for 7 months and it is still going strong, its a agreat shape and size, and comes with handy belt as well.. It has tough material, and has survived the odd chimney whilst rock climbing ;)

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As rockclimbers, yes we are looking for something lightweight however, i think it is too lightweight and one hit with a rock and it is likely to shatter.. great idea, but not sure its worth it

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awesome karabiner that prevents cross loading.. intelligent piece of gear, and i will be purchasing it soon :)

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perfect quickdraws for indoor climbing and sport. Lightweight compared to others on the market and a lot cheaper.

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Great wee karabiner, lightweight and small, fits nicely on to a packed harness. Nice to use with a belay plate in indoor climbing. I have 2 of these and would recommend them as they are cheap and great product.

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A great harness of the price, incredibly comfortable, and well adjustable for wear in different weathers. I've now gotten use out of it in every season of the year, whether it was using it for dossing about at the local indoor wall, or for trad climbing, and even over the top of a fair few layers on winter mountain routes.

The only downside I've ever seen is that it's almost TOO popular, pretty much everyone I know has one, and whilst we all have lovely things to say about the harness, it's damn tricky not to get them mixed up!

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A wonderfully cheap and cheerful helmet, the staple of many outdoors centres around the world, with an elasticated head torch holder on the front.

It's not exactly the most well designed product for comfort and wearability, but it's a great 'one-size fits all' product and for the price, it's hard to have any hang ups about it.

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Having taken a few falls on various sizes of 4cu, I can gladly say that not once I've had one of these fail on me (which thankfully means I can place them well I guess)

A smooth camming action, combined with not a huge deal of weight make me keep going back to DMM products for my rack, and these are certainly a bit of kit I would recommend to anyone.

They're not particularly expensive compared to their rivals, and I feel they out-perform most of their rivals.

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Although I have yet to use the reverso mode, due to my lack of ability to find more than one second, I think this is the best belay plate I've used so far. It's designed to be very sleek looking, yet I've not had a problem fitting any rope in to belay yet. Feeding slack feels very smooth, as one would hope, so as not to have a very angry leader on the end of the rope, yet the instant the plate takes a fall, the channels bite down, locking off very well, I've had a number of falls on this now, and each one has held solidly.

The one fault I can see with it so far, after a couple of years or so, is that when it gets knocked on things outdoors, it is rather prone to producing sharper sections, which could possibly snag the rope. I've yet to have mine snag the rope at all, but it does seem that it could in rare cases happen. Not a hugely dangerous fault, unless you happen to be belaying someone who's tied onto a rather long length of twine, but all the same, in todays health and safety concious world, I'm sure someone would complain about it massively(though they would be blowing it out of proportion).

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These draws are absolutely fantastic, the lightweight design of the draw allows you to save weight on your rack, making routes a lot easier, and seem far less cumbersome.

Having owned a set of these for a few years now, I've yet to have any trouble with the gates locking up, so far, not even a squeak from any of them, which can be a trouble with other draws, and that doesn't exactly leave a lot to be argued with.

If you can, get your hands on a set, they've been out of production for a while now, but there are still plently of places selling off their old stock and a very reasonable price, and that makes these fantastic draws even more of a bargain.

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Having spent my first few years rock climbing in beginners shoes, at the very bottom of the market, and wearing them until I went through the rubber, I felt it was time for an upgrade. I'd heard nothing but good things about Five Ten, but figured I should go to my local climbing wall's shop with an open mind, and get fitted with anything.

I tried on many different shoes, most in around the same price range as these. I tried around 10 pairs of shoes on that day in total, each shaped in a similarly neutral shape to the blanco. Each pair I tried, I tested on a traverse route or three, ensuring I got the most of the shoes edging, which was where my previous shoes had been letting me down.

Climbing shoes are entirely about personal preference, and these shoes were the first, and only pair that I tried on that day that fit me like a glove.

Upon climbing I found that my footwork was improving massively in terms of accuracy, I could see where I wanted to place my foot, normally on a small, concrete features edge, and it would stick there. These shoes are perfect in that sense, for featured indoor walls.

That said, where I most noticed the shoes benefitting my performance was outdoors, climbing traditionally (I still have yet to get a sport trip in with them). Where before I would find my feet sliding down gritstone slabs, I could now place them solidly, and they would stay there as long as I so wished. This faith in my footwork helped my push my grade greatly in just a few weeks. (However I don't doubt this was probably because my old shoes were very, very worn, and holding me back some way)

If you find that these shoes fit your feet well, I'd certainly suggest picking them up and at least giving them a try. As and when I've worn through the soles of these, I will undoubtedly get them resoled, and can see them lasting me for many years. Having spoken to other users, I can see full well that they are equally as pleased as I am with the shoes performance as a generally brilliant all round shoe.

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Sama is very good for sport climbing (light, comfortable and breaths well) but with heavy trad rack it doesn't maintain it's shape isn't that comfortable.

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Great belay plate, i do prefer the previous model though. The petzl reverso's are all very good. I like the smooth lines of the Reverso 3, however, mine is now battered from climbing on grit.

I got it for a bargain price so i've had excellent value for money from it

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When it comes to building your lead rack, the DMM 4CUs and 3CUs are impossible to overlook. Superior to the Black Diamond Camalots and DMM Dragon Cams in both strength and build quality, these are well worth the money and to be honest, we're not talking much money.

They are easy to place when in a bad move and bricking it on an HVS (bad experience).

Top banana

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These were originally a speculative purchase, I'll admit I was shamelessly drawn by their very shiny nature and I had some spare cash in my pocket...

Despite the weight I really like these for building belays (static or hanging), I find the large size ideal (especially with thicker ropes) and it certainly helps when building particularly complex belays stations. Strangely I don't used them for belaying itself but only for creating the protection, I have other more favoured karabiners that I prefer for this - not a reflection, more a superstitious attachment to my 'belay 'biner'

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As helmets go this one looks cool, it feels like on the head too which a real bonus. Personally I found it didnt fit my head too well (perhaps its too big!), even when adjusted it still wasnt that comfortable on my head, so definatly worth trying it on before buying it, don't buy blindly over the net because it looks cool!

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Although the Scarpa Vega are seen as slightly 'old school' I really like these boots as a reasonably priced midpoint between leather boots designed for warmer mountains and the more specialist cold weather boots such as the Phantom Lite. I've used them for Scottish winter and found they functioned well for everything from long walk ins to front pointing on technical terrain. More comfortable than I had expected plastic boots to be, and if it's really cold you can keep the inner boots on in your sleeping bag to stop them freezing overnight.

They feel solid and unbreakable when you have them on and i feel they will last for years.

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Due to its primaloft fill, this jacket provides superior warmth even when dripping wet. As an outdoor professional, this is a perfect piece of clothing to keep compressed in my rucksack for an emergency (as kids often don't bring the right kit).

When you put this jacket on, you can instantly feel the difference.

Top banana

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In my opinion, this helmets lightweight design allows for hard and fast alpine performance when combined with lightweight clothing and equipment. The unique shape is comfortable and better than its competitors.

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I find this a great glove for belaying, the fit is excellent, the leather supple and soft (no breaking in required) and the palm gives good grip for belaying.

While some have questioned the durability of these I have nothing but praise for their build quality, they have been scraped over all rock types, languished in the kit bag, been (accidentally) trodden underfoot and only required a wash and a bit of TLC to bring them back.

The fit is comfortably snug, without being excessively tight - I have small hands so the fit suited me very well, those with larger hands or banana like fingers may find them too restrictive.

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Lightweight, warm, packs down small - not much else one can say. I got one with the water resistant (just) shell facing. helps with snow, but nothing else.

Was fortunate to get this in a sale, otherwise would rate this as expensive for this type of product.

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Hard not to like these, excellent for sport climbing with a nice wide tape so no turning of the karabiners. Lovely gate action and confidence inspiring build quality.

Don't tend to use them for Trad climbing as a lot of them ends up weighing too much on the harness with the other gear.

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The camp rockstar is not my idea of the best helmet out there, it looks ugly for starters, I think part of the problem with people not wearing helmets is due to climbers being more concerned with their image than safety, therefore having a helmet that doesn't all that attractive isn't going to help!

Personally I find the helmet makes my head sweat, is generally not that comfortable to wear, fits quite small (I have to have it on the biggest sizing to wear it). It is also not very cheap given that the RRP is £42, for that money you could buy some like a Black Diamond half dome or Petzl Elios. The adjustment system is also not that good; you have to physically pull the back apart like a baseball cap. In one way I guess no moving parts makes this good, however I could imagine over time this becomes loose and insecure.

It is however lightweight.....

Overall, not my cup of tea, but it's an ok helmet for centres etc.

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The photon screwgate is another good zero G product, and as with all zero G products it provides good quality and good value. The photon is a bit more substantial than zero G's other karabiner (the neutron), there are bit better built and don't have the rattle on the gate that the neutron do. Overall, good karabiner, good price - keep your eye open for deals!

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These quickdraws are good quality and affordable value, they are very similar to the whild country oxgyen quickdraw - but much cheaper! They are slightly heavier than some quickdraws out there, however they would be great for someone looking to get a rack together on a budget. For the price you really can't complain - and they can often be found with food offers on packs of 5.

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This is probably the most affordable in terms of price / quality magnesia. Zippered package for easy storing. One pack is enough for a long time, but you can also share with your friends.

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Mine is coming up to its third season of use and still going strong - fit adjustment is good, comfortable to wear all day and offers excellent protection. I find the adjustment useful when wearing a beanie underneath for a bit of warmth in winter but for a helmet that has such complete head enclosure it's surprisingly cool.

My only niggle (if I had to find one) is that I find the chin strap a little fiddly but that's probably down to me rather than the helmet.

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Super versatile do it all rope, I've dragged this up and down all sorts and it's a wonderful rope to use - due to the multiple ratings it tends to have an awful lot of stretch in it which can take you by surprise first time.

Plays out nicely, very nice to belay with - can seem a bit smooth if not used to thin ropes. I think it's worth paying the extra for the 'Golden Dry' finish, much better during the wet and helps to stop dirt being ground into the sheath (makes it easy to wash).

Where weight is a factor this is a great choice, I wouldn't want to use it as a rope for a headpointing/redpointing (too pricey) and other, thicker ropes are better for thrashing to bits but to take on spec with a long walk-in and you're not sure what you're going to end up doing this is great.

Would I recommend it? Definitely.

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The Atom is a basic HMS karabiner, providing space for clove hitches. An ideal karabiner for a beginner looking to build a rack on a budget. The karabiner is light, but the gate is slightly less solid than other screwgates, and there is a bit of rattle in the gate.

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The Zero G neutron follows all of zero G gear providing good quality gear at affordable prices The neutron is a good quality screwgate at a decent price. They are light, and useful for building belays. The gate does not feel as solid as other screwgates out there - little bit of a rattle.

Overall; great karabiner at a good price, ideal for beginners starting a rack.

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The DMM 4cu is my favourite cam to date. I have a full set of these and they have not let me down once in the time I've had them. They have a smooth trigger action, as well pre drilled holes in the trigger bar to allow cord to be placed in a U shape configuration. This basically means if you are an idiot (like me) and frequently place the cams too deep into a crack, you can use a nutkey to pull the cord back, which will pull the trigger back and thus release the cam.

There are plenty of sizes available to allow customisation of your rack prior to climb, and the large range means there will be a cam to fit all shapes and sizes of cracks!

Price wise these are very reasonable, and can generally be found throughout the UK on good deals for sets of 3.

Overall, great value, great quality, good range of sizes, and overall a high quality piece of kit that won't let you down!

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The Metolius freenut is an innovative nutkey - provided you with a nutkey that has a built in karabiner to clip it to your harness, save's having to carry it on a seperate karabiner. The freenut also has a slightly weighted end, which is ideal for knocking stuck gear out of place!

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I recently thought I would get a decent pair of sunglasses, since for the amount of time I spend with them on, they would more than pay for themselves. After trying a number on I settled on the Straight Jacket. I have to say they are incredibly comfortable, the polarised lenses really do work keeping the sun out of my eyes all day. I quite often forget I am wearing them. One thing I have always thought important about sunglasses are how they feel on the top of your head - and these feel great!

I should stress however that Oakley glasses vary in size a great deal between the models, so definately try a few pairs before settling on one set!

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These karabiners are really annoying. I got one with my BD hex's, and made the mistake of trying to use it for racking them on. Since the oval shape is symetrical you can't tell which end is which. This has lead to me more than once opening the gate only to drop half my hexes by accident. Seriously, do yourself a favour and buy a normal wiregate to rack gear on!

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These karabiners look really cool; building on the other mammut karabiners out there. The gate is almost like a twisted wiregate, they are very light due to the I beam construction. They aren't that cheap however, so if you are looking to keep costs down I would look elsewhere. However if you are looking for something that looks a bit different and keeps the weight down, definately consider these.

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The Aero is DMM's replacement for the old truscrew. Weight wise they are very competitive with other karabiners in the market. The cost is also good value for what you get. They are well made and substantial feeling. Good quality D shape biner at a good price

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the Aero HMS is your standard sized HMS. Built well as with all DMM products, it can comfortably fit 2 clove hitches on making it ideal for setting up belays. It is a decent price for a well made karabiner, worthwhile if you are just building a new rack and what a good quality HMS or 2.

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The BD camelots are a good camming device, with a range of sizes from very small up to collosal! This means you can buy sizes that really link to what you will use them for. For me, I have 4 mid sized ones for use on single pitch grit. As a single stem cam they used to dominate the market in terms of quality, however more manufacturers are coming out with new models now so there is competition out there. They have a smooth action, and the trigger bar is textured to allow easy grip.

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These are solid quickdraws, but as with all solid gate snapgates come with the "gate chatter" when they knock against objects. Overall these are a well built quickdraw coming in 10cm, 18cm and 24cm sizes for varying types of route.

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As snapgates go, the technology has moved on, leaving lighter karabiners the option of choice for climbers. Solid gates are often replaced with wiregates. This karabiner is well made and of good quality, and if you prefer solid gate snapgate karabiners then this is your choice. But in comparison to other snapgates on the market, this is heavier.

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Simple, light, small screwgate. Ideal for building belays, due to the size of the karabiner only a single clove hitch can fit on to the karabiner.

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The nuptse vest is an excellent down gillet. The vest has all the same features of the Nuptse jacket except for a hood. The vest includes fleece pockets for warmth, an internal pocket, and comfortable fit. The vest can also be packed away in to the internal pocket, allowing it to be stored in a small state and put in a rucksack, or even used as a pillow!

Overall; great down gillet!

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Here in the UK the North Face has recieved a bit of stick for becoming an overly comercialised brand, often worn by people who know nothing about the outdoors, and the most action their jacket will see is walking down the high street!

However the Nuptse jacket is an example of why that bad press is unfounded, the jacket is brilliant, and provides a great level of warmth to weight. It is a comfortable fit, it does have a hood that packs away into the neck, however this is not a brilliant addition! The pockets are fleece lined making them feel incredibly warm when you put your hands in. The drawcord at the bottom of the jacket ensures a good fit!

Overall, great down jacket, good warmth and comfort.

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As bouldering mats go, you can't really say fairer that the Phud. You get a good quality bouldering mat, for a good price. It is quite a firm pad, however it provides a good landing, and is ideal for protecting those bad landings, and the plus side is you don't have to break the bank to afford it!

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This sleeping bag is one of (if not THE) best sleeping bag out there at the moment. It is incredible warm even in the coldest of conditions, the baffle is ideal for "snuggling down" and keeping the cold out. The hood is adjustable and comfortable.. The bags sharks tail bottom allows for some movement of the feet whilst sleeping. The ultrasoft lining really is comfortable, makes hunkering down in a snowhole as comfortable as is possible! Speaking of which....the Drilite loft outer is water resistant enough to keep out snow and rain whilst bivi'ing out. The sleeping bag comes with a stuffsack for carrying it, and with a mesh sack for storage to avoid compressing the down too much. There is also an XL version for taller people wishing to own one of these.

There is of course the drawback of cost....at £320 this bag is not cheap, it is however worthwhile if you want quality, you can spend less however you will not find a product this good for that cost.

Overall; incredible 4 season sleeping bag, ideally suited to cold nights out, but comes at a cost (one that I personally think is worthwhile!)

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The spirit is a good shoe (I have the velcro version), good sole, decent fit. What I would say about these shoes is that they don't stretch very much, so don't rely on them stretching to fit your foot better.

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The Aero Quickdraw is a good quality, good value runner. Ideal for a starter rack. The main issue with these is because they are solid gate they are slightly more heavy than a wire gate runner, and the weight difference over 8 quickdraws can be significant. They also suffer from the gate chatter which is synonymous with solid gate karabiners, although how much of a difference this makes is questionable.

Overall, good runner for the price

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The Phud is a great crash pad for the price. It is fairly firm but gives a pleasant landing when fallen/jumped onto and feels well built and asthough it will last well.

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I have found these to be of exceptional quality. They feel well made and inspire confidence to trust them. The draws are shaped in a way that they are very easy to clip

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I had a pear of these as my first climbing shoes. I god on with them really well the fit is snug but not painful and I loved climbing in them however I managed to wear out the sole in 5 months. This was probably due to being a beginner nad having poor footwork though.

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These hex's have a number of benefits, they product a good camming effect when placed correctly. If you prefer a slung hex as a pose to a wired hex, then these are the best out there. The hexes are anodised, with a coloured sling to match the anodising, this makes it easy to select a hex once you have been using them for a while.

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The Mountain Equipment Astron is a diverse and well designed softshell. The are both male and female (Astral) versions, along with a hooded jacket, non hooded jacket, pull on jacket (with half zip), and a vest. So there are a number of different versions out there, allowing users to choose the version most suitable for their activities. Personally I have the hooded jacket. I have found a number of things in the time I have owned this jacket:

Firstly the jacket really does keep the wind off you, as a windproof layer it is very effective. It is also showerproof, anything but heavy rain is repelled.

Secondly the jacket is very breathable, I get hot very easily on the hill, however I can wear this jacket all day and remain cool.

Thirdly it is very flexible. This makes it great to climb in, there are flexible fleece sections on the sides of the jacket meaning it is articulated when climbing.

The hood is also excellent, allowing a helmet comfortably underneath.

The other thing I would say about this jacket is that the sizes come up a little small, so if you are usually a size M, get an L in this jacket!

Overall, just a brilliant jacket, ideal as a lightweight shell, or just a jacket to climb in during less than ideal weather conditions!

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....this one is as good as the others! Its a chalkbag! Decent size though, made of good material, draw cord to keep everything in

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The Wild Country Oxygen is a good karabiner, light enough (although not Oxgyen light!), they do suffer from the "gate chatter" that solid gate snapgate karabiners all do, this however should not detract from the fact that they are a good karabiner with a smooth nose to prevent the rope getting caught on it, there is a curved gate version to aid in clipping the rope when used as a quickdraw.

Overall, decent karabiner, if found on offer or on the cheap, definately worthwhile

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A versatile belay plate, works excellently in guide mode and as others have mentioned the addition of the extra hole to help release it has made a world of difference.

I find it very smooth to use, perhaps too smooth for some and is considerably less 'grabby' than others that I have used - I've used it happily with ropes from 9.1mm to 10mm though I find attention is required when using the smaller diameter ropes.

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I have to be honest, I benefited from a set of these bought as an over generous gift rather than requiring something to match my ability – sadly, that being said, when you put these on you feel like you can climb two grades above your usual.

These shoes inspire confidence and ooze quality. I was pleasantly surprised at the level of comfort, expecting something that would contort my feet into something unrecognizable. Not so. As with all climbing shoes, one mans comfort is another’s torture - I would still advocate that anyone desiring these (while still available) or their replacement to go and try them on. These are definitely precision shoes and if your feet don't fit the Five Ten 'vision' then I wouldn't be surprised if you find these incredibly uncomfortable.

Apparently a sport climbing shoe primarily, I've found these equally at home on longer hauls on trad climbing as well, the flatter sole unit being less aggressive means that they're not as bad to walk or stand around in. The rubber on the sole is everything that has been spoken of, surprisingly durable for something that give so much grip, I have found them excellent in their home territory of small pockets and tiny ledges and they do a fair turn of smearing as well - far better than I was expecting.

I would happily recommend these to anyone looking for a performance shoe that is capable of doing pretty much anything.

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I have long been a fan of the DMM boa, so when I saw that DMM were doing a limited run of karabiners for Mammut, I was interested in seeing what they looked like. Well....the Bionic Mythos looks really cool, Titanium grey with electric blue screwgate, they look really good. In terms of functionality the karabiner is excellent for belays, providing space for 2 or (at a push) 3 clovehitches, and a variety of other knots.

Overall, good karabiner, good price, cooler looking version of a boa!

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It's a bit tricky to describe the moment when you start to use these, it's like an 'epiphany' moment, and they just work. Usually saved for the desperate bits - they fit and sit where nothing else will, great for cracks and unusually flared placements.

Brilliant pieces of kit - come with all the usual attention to detail from DMM - recessed wires, colour coded anodizing and upside down label to make it easier to read when your hold the crab in your mouth and fiddling through whilst desperately trying to maintain 5 points of contact. That might just be me though!

A worthwhile addition for anyone looking to widen the range of protection they have.

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These are excellent nuts - I find that they fit and seat well giving good protection, the scoop and flare allowing then to sit well in a variety of placements.

I still find that at the lower end WC rocks fit as well if not better in some placements but the only serious contender in terms of performance I've found are the Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts which are also excellent.

Pros:
Anodized (personal preference)
Versatile
Stiff wire

Cons:
Can be tricky to clean - can sit too well!

  • Excellent design
  • Good weight
  • Easy to place (stiff wires)
  • Can be difficult to clean
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The belay master 2009, was a slight change from the previous model. Previous the belay was a DMM Fatboy karabiner, with a black plastic clip that attached directly onto the karabiner, and there was nothing different about karabiner itself. The idea being that closing the clip prevented the gate from unscrewing, and also confirmed that karabiner was screwed up.

The 2009 version is slightly different, it is based on a DMM Fatboy slim karabiner, but there is a groove cut out on the karabiner for the new clip to sit in, so the karabiner is slightly customised compared to the standard fatboy slim.

The belay master should be considered in 2 ways:

1) As a centre use karabiner; it is excellent because from an instructional point of view it enables you to easily see whether a group member has screwed up a karabiner correctly, and also to enable them to realise that because the clip won't close, the karabiner is not screwed up correctly. From this point of view the belay master is brilliant

2) As a personal use karabiner; personally having used these for personal climbing I dont get much use from it, yes it does tell you that you haven't screwed the karabiner up, however the plastic clip really does get in the way if you want to tie off the belay plate, as passing a bight of rope through the karabiner is hard without unclipping the belay master clip, and then you are left with a plastic clip flapping round, which ultimately you then need to remove and replace later.

Overall; great from centres and instructors, not as many advantages for personal climbing though!

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The Boa is a huge karabiner, ideal for building belays. The I beam construction means it is quite light for its size. There is plenty of space for clove hitches, italian hitches etc. The 2009 version differs from previous versions because of the I beam build, meaning needless metal is removed, but the strength is maintained.

Excellent biner, good value, good size, good weight!

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I don't have a bad word to say about these wires! These were the best £40 I have ever spent. The offset shape of these wires means they fit where nothing else can, they are a real lifesaver, I often find myself trying to save these wires for higher up on the climb where things get a bit more desperate! They really do just fit well in cracks, they are an ideal complimentary product to another set of wires, and a valuable addition to any rack. They come in a set of 5 (7-11), and are annodised according to size.

Overall, I would highly recomend these for anyone who has established a basic rack, and is looking to increase their rack with more diverse pieces of protection!

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The reverso2 or "old reverso" as it now seems to be known, is a good belay plate, and was my first belay device. It's great to belay on, but can be a little sluggish to abseil with - providing a lot of friction which can slow down. The reverso2 has a guide mode "reverso mode" which is excellent when working with 2 clients, or just to belay in a direct setup, however it is difficult to release under load, if you have to lower your second off for example, this involves a complicated mess of slings and karabiners to do so.

Overall whilst this is an excellent plate, the strides forward made by Petzl with their new Reverso3, render this one very out of date, I would advise anyone looking at buying one of these, to pay the little extra and get the reverso3.

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The ATC is a well constructed, simple belay plate. Very at home belaying on the lead, abseiling, or in a climbing wall. It's simplicity makes it a good first belay plate for any beginners out there, and can also be a very effective belay plate to teach novices with.

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The ME Fitzroy has been a loyal companion on many trips. I have found it ideal for winter climbing - to pull out of my back and slip on over the top of my hardshell while belaying at the top or bottom of a climb. The Fitzroy has 2 large pockets on the front, and one small pocket on the chest (ideal for a chocolate bar or 2!). The hood is excellent, it will fit comfortably over a helmet, and the wired peak allows for it to be adjusted to suit the users needs. In terms of warmth this jacket lacks the boiling heat of a high fill power down jacket, however the degree of water resistances, and wind proofing more than makes up for that. When used as a belay jacket, on top of several other layers, this jacket really makes a difference in cold, tough conditions on the hill.

Overall, a brilliant piece of equipment, that packs down very small, and provides good warmth an protection from the elements

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Of all the belay devices I have used this is my favourite. When belaying for a lead climb I found the payout extremely smooth.
When lowering the grooves on the high friction side provides great control over the climbers descent.

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When looking for my first helmet I tried loads on in this price range and found the Elios to be the most comfortable for me, It is very easy to adjust with the dial at the back. And unlike others I tried I cant see the lip at the front when wearing it which is good when wearing it to climb.

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The Scarpa Vega is a well built, solid B3 boot. The boot can be fitted with a high altitude liner, ensuring more insulation at higher altitude. I have had my Vega's for 2 1/2 years now, over that time they have been all over the place with me and have served me loyally. The vibram soles and flexible cuff, do ensure a degree of comfort on walk ins.

Overall the Vega is a good boot, built to last, and with the addition of a high altitude liner they can be customised to some extent for the nature of your trip.

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The Hexcentrics have been a real workhorse on my rack for a long time now. The fit very well, and I personally prefer the feeling of a wired hex over a slung hex. They fit very well in different cracks, giving an excellent camming action when placed correctly. They also have a great range of sizes, ideal for customising a rack with the sizes you need for a specific route.

Overall definately worth the investment!

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We have used these helmets at my work for a few years now. They are a decent helmet, easy to fit and adjust, and do sit very well on the head. The only problem I have found with these is that the foam band at the front tends to make my head sweat quite a bit if wearing over a long period of time.

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I like the ice clippers, I think they are a good addition to any harness, especially on the BD Blizzard where you can slot them through the purpose designed holes on the harness. In winter they are good for not only storing screws, but also to rack your tools if you need to, belay plate etc.

However I must also add that in January of this year my ice clipper came mysteriously undone and as a result 2 of my BD ice screws dropped off my harness. Fortunately they dropped on the belay ledge, could have been much worse! This has been an isolated incident at present, but something to watch!

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I owned the previous Reverso and really liked it, except for the horror of having to release it in guide mode under load (very difficult). The Reverso3 has address this issue by creating a small hole in the bottom, this allows you to use a karabiner as a lever to release the slack. Overall the Reverso3 is a great belay plate, the guide mode is good, it is smooth to abseil with, and most of all it works well with all rope diameters (I used a 10.5mm and a 8.1mm).

Overall, well worth getting if you want a good belay plate with a guide mode.

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The BD Blizzard is the most comfortable harness I owned in my time climbing. The harness is made with hyrophobic fabric; meaning it repels water instead of soaking it up. The gear loops are plentiful and a good size. The harness also comes with "ice clippers". These are essentially small plastic karabiners used for racking ice screws (or anything else). The blizzard has small slots all the way around it that are designed for mounting the ice clippers. This means you can customise your harness with extra gear racking options. Personally I used 2 ice clippers (one on each side), for summer climbing I find them useful for my belay plate or other essential bits. For winter, they are great for screws.

Overall I would recomend this harness to anyone looking for a top end harness, that is both comfortable and functional.

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Ange is a very, very good carabiner. It's light and works well also in cold conditions. The design is really good, it clips well, clear clip nose makes the handling good and there's plenty of small details that make the Ange stand out of the crowd; like the small hole in the nose that helps to keep the nose clear as well as bumps that help the carabiner to stay in place.

While some of the others have considered Ange S (the small version) too small to be used gloves on, I've found no problems especially when used on protection end. At the moment it seems that the new carabiners I'm going to purchase will all be Anges.

  • Excellent build quality
  • Light
  • Excellent design
  • Expensive
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The grivel salamander is a great helmet and has served me loyally over the last 3 years. In the past I have found helmets make my head sweat, and become uncomfortable after a period of wearing. However the salamander has non of these problems, it keeps my head cool, and often I can wear it the whole day without even realising it is still on my head! The headtorch elastics are good for mountain a torch securely on your helmet. The helmet is very light, which adds to the comfort, it also (I find) sits very well on my head. There are also a number of accessories available including visors for ice climbing etc

One other cool feature about the salamander are the variety of colours; it just means you can get something a little more personal that matches the rest of your kit!

Overall: Worth getting.

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I have owned several sets of wires over my time climbing, these have ranged in brand and cost. However I will never again stray from the wallnuts. I have found that they seem to fit better in cracks than other wires I have used. The range of sizes you get with a 1-11 set is also a positive, with the small size being similar to a micro wire, and the large size being slightly larger than a small hex. The annodising on the wallnuts makes them easy to identify when racked, I have found myself looking at a crack and thinking "right that looks like a gold sized crack", meaning I can instantly look at my rack and grab the right size quickly. I have used these in winter, summer and during group sessions for rigging top ropes etc, and I am yet to find a flaw!

Good job DMM!

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With active motion at -1-10C your feet will get hot. But during the stops you will not experience any problems. At -20-30C better not to stay for a long time in one place — your fingers will freeze. Insulated gaiters will help to increase frost resistance.

During the 2 years of operation, plastic covered with scratches — the price for the approaches to the mountain trails on the moraine ridge. No cracks in the plastic, no holes in inner boots or something else.

+ reasonable price, durability
- weight

  • Cheap compared to quality
  • Robustness
  • Heavy
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Good basic harness. Enough loops for clack-bag etc. Easy to adjust to fit well.

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Grivel Gamma K2W is a strong good quality carabiner that's fairly easy to clip. Unfortunately there are significantly lighter similarily sized alternatives that offer similar quality, there are even many which are both lighter and offer clear clip nose, something that's Grivel Gamma K2W is lacking. Personally I consider clear clip nose as a "must have" feature of a modern carabiner. Therefore I'm likely to turn into other alternatives.

  • Good build quality
  • Weight
  • No clear clip nose
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Petzl Tiblock is really clever and light piece of safety equipment. It's easy to use to build pulleys and to prevent rope slipping back in such situations. You just need any carabiner in addition. Couple of these should be included in every lead climber's rack as well as crevasse rescue pack.

  • Light
  • Excelent concept
  • Versatible
  • Not very rope friendly
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It's a good screw carrier. While not perhaps as sturdy as similar one from BD, it's strong enough to cary up to 6-7 screws. I like Petzl Caritool better than Black Diamond Ice Clipper because it has a long "tongue" that keeps the clipper better in place also vertically... this true even in case you have a BD harness that has clipper slots. The only problem I've experienced is the "stretching" with a heavy screw load - as a result Petzl Caritool is currently my screw carrier of choice.

  • Good build quality
  • Does not twist around
  • Could be sturdier
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Helium carabiners are super light and they clip like a dream. I have to say that after these I'm not going to buy any carabiners that do not have the clear clip nose. In addition to clear clip nose Heliums feature many other well thought features. However, I've encountered couple of quality problems. Some of my Heliums do not close the gate as they supposed to. I have a lot older carabiners that operate just fine, so it cannot be the amount of use.

  • Light
  • Clips well
  • Excellent build quality
  • Clear clip nose
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Reverso 3 is a very versatible belay device. It's easy to handle, can be used in auto-locking mode when belaying above and the instructions on the side of the device allows you to check if you put it right way. The only problem I've experienced with it is the fact that reverso seems to be somewhat "soft" aluminium and gets bumps pretty easily from the carabiner. Some of those bumbps may have sharp edges, which may damage the rope. One should regularly check the edges and smooth them out if necessary. Reverso 3 seems to be a bit more prone to this problem than the earlier model.

  • Instructions
  • Weight
  • Ease of use
  • Versatibility
  • Too soft aluminium
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I've been very happy with my Gamma MX Hoody. It's ventilation system that uses the pockets is really cleaver and shaves off few extra zippers + works really well. It's quality, as usually is the case with Arc'teryx, is simply outstanding. Jacket works fairly well with my harness, breathes suprsingly well, but offers enough protection for the elements. I do most of my ice climbing and ski touring in this.

  • Excellent build quality
  • Excellent design
  • Finnishing
  • Breathability
  • Durability
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Gamma MX pants are breathable and lightly insulated. Their fit is excellent and pants work well also with harnesses. I do most of my ice climbing and ski touring in these. As always Arc'teryx quality is outstanding. That applies to design, materials and manufacturing. The quality is really the biggest difference compared to most other similar products.

  • Excellent build quality
  • Excellent design
  • Finnishing
  • Breathability
  • Durability
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It's a good quality rope and it's strength lies in its versatility. I've been using this as a back up rope and second top rope in such ice climbing spots that it's possible to establish several lines. It's not good though due its weight for multipitch ice routes.

  • Smoothly running
  • High quality
  • Light (as a single)
  • Versatible
  • Heavy (as a double)
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Williams are good large belay carabiners. Due to size they're a bit heavy, but not that much that it would matter with a belay carabiner. You don't carry too many of them after all. The ball lock mechanism though (like almost all auto lock mechanisms) is somewhat prone to icing --> Screwgate is propably a better choice for ice climbing.

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Helium quickdraws are simply put excellent, they're extremely light, the nose that does not tangle is marvelous invention and their handling is simply put superb. The only problem from my point of view, being an ice climber, is the fact that the rubber that holds the rope end carabiner in place does not last very well in cold. I have a set of these and the rubber has survived in only one of them for more than a season. It does not make them unusable, but I would definately choose something else for cold conditions climbing. For warmer weather they're probably the best carabiners today.

  • Weight
  • Good build quality
  • Ease of clipping
  • Durability of "holding" rubber
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Taa-k-oon is a stable heavy duty technical tool. To put it short Taa-k-oon is a creat technical ice axe. It's more stable most of the competition, it has a good and accurate swing and finally due its weight it penetrates ice easily. The weight though is also the down side, these are a lot heavier than Grivel's newer carbon fiber models with similar shape, and therefore not perhaps the best tool for weight concious climbers. Taa-k-oons also require more strength than lighter alternatives. Also the griprests in taa-k-oons is way too small. With heavier gloves on, you can fit your hand there just barely and they tend to sherd the gloves because of that.

  • Stability
  • Accuracy
  • Durability
  • Excellent design
  • Weight
  • Too small griprest
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Grivel Rambo 4 is simply clever. It's basically a monopoint, but with a small stabilizing second front point. Rambo 4 is a bit heavy and as difficult to adjust as any rigid crampon, but climbing with it is just pure joy. It's penetration abilities combined with it's stability is simply unmatched. I also like the way the active antibots work, they literally blow off the snow every time you step on the crampon.

There are couple of issues though with Rambo 4. First, it is rather heavy, second the adjustment requires tools, though the structure is built around "one bolt adjustment" principle. Also while fenerally speaking Rambo is very durable and reliable piece of equipment, there are two weaknesses; the metal thing attached to front bail that's used to route the crampon leash and the antibots. As with many other similar Grivel designs the metal thing that's attached to front bail tends "break off" from the bail (mine is fine, but one of my friend's isn't + I've seen several other Grivel crampons suffering the same problem). I've also noticed that the yellow central "active" piece of the antibots tend to come off from the small plastic "nubs" that keep it on its place. The antibot problem is easy to fix, it's not a permanent damage, but still annoying.

Overall I've been very happy with Rambo 4s. Though at this point for technical ice I would probably purchase Grivel G20s.

  • Accurate
  • Stable
  • Climbs well
  • Excellent build quality
  • Active antibots
  • Heavy
  • Antibot related problems
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It's a pretty nice glove.

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You've got to have something to store your screws if you have any of them. Black Diamond's screw up is excellent choice for that. It's durable, pretty straight forward to use and lets the screws dry (i.e. the bottom is open)... and has a bright color, that makes it easier to find from a back pack.

  • Good build quality
  • Excelent concept
  • Durability
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Black Diamond's clipper is strong enough to carry the screws and does not twist too much. It's especially handy if you're using Black Diamond harness that has slots for the clipers.

  • Sturdy enough
  • Twistes around
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Purchased one of these as the store where I got some other stuff didn't have any others available. Despite the prize was pretty low, I wasn't very happy once I tried it. The Hub is made of way too flexible material and as a result even small load of screws will twist it so that the wire gate doesn't stay closed. Obviously it is very easy to drop a screw from it. Furthermore the hub doesn't stay put, it turns back and forth, making it rather difficult to operate. If clipper is what you're after, take a look at the Petzl's Caritool.

  • Fairly cheap
  • Too flexy
  • Opens accidentally
  • Cannot carry enough screws
  • Turns around too easily
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There is a lot to like about this jacket, and while it does everything it should do competently I find it hard to fall in love with it the same way I did the Atom LT hoody. Then again is it fair to compare a £100 jacket with a £170 one?

I'm not sure is it the Priamloft eco that causes it or it could of course be the pertex fabric outer but it seems to get clammy quite quickly after upping your activity level. On the up side it is highly windproof and holds its temperature well in a good strong breeze.

The jacket has lots of nice features, a fully adjustable wire brimmed hood, it's packable into one pocket, it has a double zip and the main zip is a locking one too which is great. There are reflective panels on the back of it as well, although surely these would be covered by a rucksack?

The pockets are huge (the area with vertical baffles) and the insulation is both on the inner and outer area of the pockets, making a total of 80g/m2 insulaiton on the entire chest area! The rest of the jacket is 40g/m2, which is just about enough to provide warmth. I certainly wouldn't want any less though.
I have noticed that despite it's strong windproof nature that it takes longer to heat up than the Atom LT hoody, I have a feeling that it is the insulation type used rather than the fill weight as most of the front of the Prism 2.0 is 80g/m2, whereas the Atom LT is 60g/m2 all over. Yet the LT heats up almost instantly.

Size Medium is a really nice fit for my 178cm 77Kg frame. One thing to mention though, the sleeves are a tiny bit on the short side and I don't have long arms. If you do it would be well worth checking this out before committing to purchasing.
I got mine on sale so it represents quite good value, however I don't think it would do so at full price.

  • Fully adjustable hood
  • HUGE pockets
  • Packability
  • Double layer of insulation in pocket area
  • Clammy
  • Short sleeves
  • Can take a long time to heat up
 
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