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R1 Hoody
Patagonia
08.04.2011 | 22:17

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Reviews from user (Top 3 rated)

 
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Having used most nuts on the market today these are by far the best. Hugely versatile, they will fit in all the same placements as Wild Country rocks or BD stoppers. However due to their "flared and scouped" faces they will fit some far more complex faces than the simple and boxy rocks and stoppers. This complex shape can lead them to clean, but we can let the second worry about that!

Pros:
Will fit same placements as rocks or stoppers + more.
Lightweight
Stiff wire
Andonized

Cons:
None really, harder to clean?

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My favorite piece of outdoor clothing, hugely versatile. I would wear this on almost all of my climbs (especially winter and alpine) and for everyday casual wear, just don't zip the hood up!

So, the hoody is made out of a polartec product called powerdry, the material has small 'fleecy squares', apparently these greatly increase the heat retention of the material. It is also very tough, I've only managed to put one hole in the back and a larger hole at the cuff where there is significant wear (someone did manage to put a large hole in chest with a firework outside Bar'd up in Chamonix, I now have two chest pockets).

The fleece is supposed to have quite a tight, 'body-hugging' fit for maximum warmth and best fit, I take a medium in most tops but a small in the R1. The fleece is very long and has lighter material at the waist, this can be tucked under your harness and will actually stay there! This material is also used at the cuffs, I've worn a hole through mine through heavy use, the hole causes no problems.

So, from top to bottom:

The hood, this is the real gem of the R1, it tends to sit very nicely on the shoulders yet when zipped up provides a nice, light warm balaclava to hide in. There i an area of soft material between the zip and mouth, this works very well. I find when sleeping in cold conditions the hood zipped up is much less constrictive than a hat or actual balaclava. Patagonia get 10/10 for this design!

Chest pocket, don't use this much (at all actually) however it breaks up the color nicely and adds a bit more style! Those who use it will probably like it.

The cuffs, probably the only negative point, they have a small thumb hole that I don't like. They don't fit my hands (thumbs) very well. I think if the arms were a bit longer they would be fine, however I wouldn't really use them anyway, I don't like thumb holes. What I do use them for I do like though; when I put on a layer over the R1 I put my thumbs in the holes, put on the top layer and then take my thumbs out. This stops the R1's sleeves riding up my arms.

The waist, another great piece of design. The waist is is much longer than most fleeces, the material at the bottom is much lighter than the main body and tucks under a harness and stays there, well, mostly.

All in all this is defiantly favorite piece of outdoor clothing, I would wear it most days of the week climbing or not. Its just simple and good!...and its Patagonia!

10/10

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As below, works well in reverso mode however I much prefer my BD ATC (not the guide one) for normal belaying. I'll only take the reverso when on bolted belays or when belaying two seconds.

 
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